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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Večernice
In the left part of the valley face, via a chimney into the inner space. Via the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Večernice
From the plateau fore-rock, by stepping over and via the face along the eastern edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vodák
From the west, by Saxon build-up from the stream into the chimney, via it and the face to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Klášter
From the NE via a chimney, a crack (hourglass) and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Myška
From the start of the 'Zázrak' route, traverse right along a fading crack to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Myška
Via the upper wall diagonally to the right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Myška
In the right part of the valley wall via a crack and the wall to the 1st ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Klášter
To the right of the 'Chinese Wall' route via the wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Klášter
From the SW via a chimney to the pillar. Stepping across and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Klášter
From the NW (by aid climbing) via a crack into a hole. Along the cracks to the ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Klášter
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Klášter
From the summit of Novicka, by stepping across to a pine tree and via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Varle
Along the left edge of the SW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Varle
Via the SE wall and a crack (ring - gently hammered into a pine tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Strážce
To the left of the start of the Rousek route, via a chimney to a sloping ramp and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Varle
Via the SW chimney to the fore-summit, over an overhang and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce
From the NE via the right crack into a hollow and to the left to the balcony to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Strážce
From the SE via a system of chimneys to the platform. Via a sloping crack to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce
In the corner on the NW side via a chimney to a large block. Via a double crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Vrátný
From the NW via a crack to a block and by aid climbing to the 1st ring. By aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Vrátný
To the right of the Kuplířská route, via a chimney to the saddle. Stepping across to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7-/7
Vrátný
From the NW via the wall (2 rings) to the fore-summit and via the "Kuplířská" route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Vrátný
Via the wall along the blunt western edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Vrátný
To the left of "Klistr" via a chimney and a crack to the 1st ring. Via a system of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Vrátný
Via the Kuplířská route to the balcony. Traverse the wall to the left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Pedofil
To the right of the northern edge, by stemming, via the wall (ring) and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Vrátný
From the SW from the boulder, over an overhang and via the wall to a small crack, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Vrátný
On the northeast side, any way possible to a overgrown platform (ring). By significant… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Velbloud
Via the SW wall and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velbloud
From the NW by stemming to the ring. Building up from the harness and via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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