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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Cestovka
From the valley from the NE via the chimney to the pillar, via a steep step/overhang (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Cestovka
From the fore-rock on the eastern side via a small wall to the pillar. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Dědek
From the NE via the crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Dědek
The start is to the right of the northern corner of the tower (in the inner space). Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Dědek
From the NW via the chimney and crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Up the wall (by aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
8-/8
Dědek
From the SE pillar via a narrow gully/chimney to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Ty-tydýt
In the right part of the NE wall via a diagonal crack over the northern edge and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Ty-tydýt
South wall to the ledge. Via small cracks to Q and via overhanging sections to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Ty-tydýt
The start is below the left part of the NE wall. Via the crack to the 1st ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2+
Ty-tydýt
From the gorge from Dědek via the plateau corner and to the left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Borůvka
Rock Climbing
6-
Borůvka
In the right part of the NW face, an widening crack to the balcony and a gully to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7/7+
Brusinka
In the NE face, a crack running to the right and a fissure to the 1st ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Brusinka
In the left part of the NW face, via a crack, a small pinnacle (1st ring) and a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6
Brusinka
In the right part of the NW face, via a chimney and a crack to the ring. Via the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
3
Brusinka
From the passage between Brusinka and Večerní, via a chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Řečník ze stráně
Via opposition and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Řečník ze stráně
From the south, via a small crack to a small pillar, a leap to a shelf and via the face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Večerní
In the left part of the NE face of Brusinka, via a crack and chimney to the pillar. An… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Večerní
Via the NW chimney to the 1st ring (Q). Traverse left in opposition to the northern edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Večerní
To the left of the E edge, via a small pinnacle and a crack (ring) into the groove. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Večerní
From the NW, via a chimney between Večerní and Brusinka to the pillar. Via the face (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Večerní
Via a chimney to the pillar in the NW face. Ascending from the pillar to the western edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Večerní
Via the old route to the 1st ring and a crack to the 2nd ring. Via the face to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Večerní
From the SE, from the fore-rock via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. Traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Jitřenka
Via the SE chimney and a crack to the 1st ring. To the left via the face to the 2nd ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bludný Holanďan
In the left part of the NW face, via a crack and the face to the ring. Traverse right in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Bludný Holanďan
To the right of the "Black Day" route in the adjacent massif, via a crack (ring) to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Večernice
From the Flying Dutchman, by leaping to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bludný Holanďan
Via the chimney between the routes "Black Day" and "Crack" to the massif, via the route … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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