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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Orlí hnízdo
In the left part of the NE wall, by small crack and small pillars/niches to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Orlí hnízdo
Up the East (??) edge, 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Orlí hnízdo
From the left NE chimney, traverse right on the ledge (or directly by crack) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Orlí hnízdo
From the 2nd ring, by crack and wall to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Orlí hnízdo
From the valley side, by chimney and left by crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Orlí hnízdo
From the passage from the NE, up the wall right to the 1st ring. Traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Orlí hnízdo
From the NE, by the right chimney and crack to the platform. By the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Orlí hnízdo
From the inner space, up the wall to the ring, stemming/bridging into the corner and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
7/7+
Orlí hnízdo
Right of the "Valley Route", up the wall to the 1st and 2nd rings. Right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Bonbónek
From the west (aid climbing) and left by a system of cracks to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Bonbónek
In the left part of the NE wall, by crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pazourek
From the plateau saddle up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pazourek
From the valley side, left along the gully and chimney to the saddle. Descend along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pazourek
From the balcony (left below the ring of the Old Way to Vinnetou) by jumping to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Vinnetou
In the right part of the NW wall along the crack, higher up left along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vinnetou
From the south along the gully, crack and wall to the left to the 1st ring. Aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Vinnetou
Along the Santer Route to the 1st ring. Right along the crack (added ring) and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Vinnetou
SW wall to the ring. Aid climbing from a sling and along the crack to the balcony. Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Vinnetou
Along the Old Way into the gully between the towers and with a wide chimney/stemming move… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vinnetou
From the plateau side along the crack and chimney into the gully between the towers. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Vinnetou
Via a variant of the Old Way into the wide chimney/stemming, through it and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Vinnetou
Along the Old Way for about seven meters and right up the wall behind the edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Vinnetou
From the north via the corner crack into the gully between the towers and via the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Vinnetou
From the 1st ring of the route 'Stick your fingers up your ass' by aid climbing and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rybana
In the left part of the NW fore-rock up the wide crack to the ledge. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
7-/7
Rybana
From the fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, in the middle of the wall, up the broken… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Rybana
In the valley wall between the Rybina route and Zapocený žlábek (Sweaty Gully) via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Rybana
In the right part of the valley wall along the crack to the ring and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Rybana
From the fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, right of the 'Artur's Edge' route, via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Rybana
Via the chimney of the Variant of the Old Way to Vinnetou into the wide chimney/stemming,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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