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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Džungle
Along the edge through small holes and cracks (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Šerchán
Via the Winter route to Mowgli's, to the start of the crack in the inner chimney. Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Maugli
In the left part of the SW wall, by corner crack (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. By crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Maugli
From the 6th ring, straight up the wall (ring) and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Maugli
In the middle of the SW wall (2 rings) to the 1st ring of the route Through the Forest.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Maugli
From the 3rd ring of the Wilderness route, right along the wall to the 1st ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Maugli
From the NW gorge, by crack to the inner chimney, through it and by crack, chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kniha
By crack between pillars in the NE pillar and over blocks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kniha
Left of the Listopadka route, by conical chimney to the pillar. By the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Maugli
From SW, by chimney to the ledge, then left in it and along the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kniha
From the terrace left, by chimney and up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kniha
From the terrace, by the left twin crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Kniha
From the terrace, by the right twin crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kniha
In the right part of the SW wall, by crack and wall to the ring. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kniha
From the plateau fore-summit, by corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Belzebub
From the balcony of the Sun Edge route, right along the wall, pinnacle and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Belzebub
From NE, by small chimney between Beelzebub and the Book for about 2m and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Belzebub
From "Devil's Pulpit" by shallow crack (ring) to the balcony. Right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Belzebub
In the middle of the N wall, by crack and right to the 1st ring, in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Belzebub
From the terrace, by crossing the chimney to the balcony between Beelzebub and Béda.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ďáblova kazatelna
Left of the east corner, by crack to the ring. Traverse left along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ďáblova kazatelna
In the plateau gorge, by crack to the small balcony of the opposite tower. By overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ďáblova kazatelna
NE wall at the left edge to the ring and diagonally right to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Ďáblova kazatelna
In the NE wall, by cracks to the ring (ring of the Second variant). Straight up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ďáblova kazatelna
The start is below the northern corner. By crack (ring) over the overhang to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Ďáblova kazatelna
By crack of the Second route under the overhang and traverse right along the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the west, by small crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Along the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
Left of the start of the Way to the Sun, by chimney and crack into the window. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ďáblova kazatelna
The start is below the right valley corner of the tower. By opposition to the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Béda
From the terrace, cross the chimney to the balcony, then go left and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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