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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Opavská
From the NE via a narrow chimney to the saddle between Opavská and Jestřáb. From the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Opavská
In the northern corner via a crack to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the left beyond the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Opavská
From the chimney of the Poacher's Route to Jestřáb via a crack to the balcony in the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Opavská
In the SW wall via the middle crack to the ring. Via a fissure and right along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Opavská
Along the plateau wall along the crack to the ring. Along the wall to the right and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Opavská
From the SW via a chimney to the balcony, via a crack (ring) and chimney to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Jestřáb
Along the western edge over the overhang to the ledge, along it to the left and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Jestřáb
To the right of the western corner via a crack and wall into the hole. Traverse the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Jestřáb
Along the northern edge to the 1st ring. Along the wall over the overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Opavská
From the NE via a chimney to the widening, via a gully and inner chimney to the left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hrdlička
From the balcony directly via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrdlička
From the plateau (SE) side via a crack and wall to the right to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrdlička
From the plateau (SE) side via a crack and wall to the right to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jestřáb
The entry is in the chimney on the NE side. Through the passage to the opposite side and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Děravý muž
In the right part of the wall over 5 rings to the summit (route below the abseil point). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Hrdlička
From the SW via the wall or a small corner crack to the left to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Děravý muž
In the northern wall to the left of the Závislák route over the 1st ring, hour-glass, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Stehlík
Via the left SW crack to the saddle and via the Song of Iron route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kondor
In the valley (NW) wall, by crack to the end and left by wall over a small balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Stehlík
Via the right SW crack and chimney to the saddle. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kondor
From the plateau massif, descend to the saddle. Up the wall to a ledge and along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mezikámen
Left of the Diagonal Crack route, by chimney to the crack and by it to the platform. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mezikámen
At the eastern edge, by chimney and crack to the pillar. Via the School Crack route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mezikámen
From SW by a diagonal crack, left by corner crack and chimney to the platform. Left by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mezikámen
From the NE by crack to the pillar and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8+/9-
Věž amerických kosmonautů
To the right of the N. A. S. A. route, by chimney and wall (two silver rings) under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Věž amerických kosmonautů
Through the plateau chimney into the hollow. Right by crack and chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Věž amerických kosmonautů
Through the center of the plateau wall via 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Věž amerických kosmonautů
From NE between the Tower of American Cosmonauts and Botanicka, by chimney to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Botanická
From the pillar of the Southeast Route, right by wall to the ledge and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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