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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Nový svět
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Nový svět
Through the Sokol (Falcon) between "Pirates of Metuje" and "Vyklepák". The protection on… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Májová
UIAA 3 class from the upper plateau fore-rock by stepping over, via a crack and along the… Rock Climbing
5
Májová
UIAA 5 class from the passable corridor between Májová and the valley pillar, via the… Rock Climbing
3
Májová
UIAA 3 class right of route No. 1 by stepping over into the wall. Via a small crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Varhany
UIAA cl. 5Up the chimney between Varhany and the neighboring rock, higher up via a wide… Rock Climbing
6
Sarkofág
UIAA grade 6. From the South, from the corner of the Front Pillar via a crack, higher up… Rock Climbing
4
Faraón
UIAA grade 4. In the chimney of route no. 2 onto the Sarcophagus, through a passage into… Rock Climbing
5
Sarkofág
UIAA grade 5. From the gorge to the West, via the first chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sarkofág
UIAA grade Leap 1. From the gorge to the West, via the second chimney to the Rear Pillar.… Rock Climbing
6
Faraón
UIAA grade 6. From the 2nd ring, traverse right along the wall to the 3rd ring and… Rock Climbing
5
Sfinga
UIAA grade 5. To the pillar's ledge via a corner crack from the SW. Rock Climbing
8-
Sfinga
UIAA grade 8-. Along the crack of route no. 2 for approx. 10m and diagonally down the… Rock Climbing
5+
Sfinga
UIAA grade 5+. From the platform above the gully, traverse right along the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Faraón
UIAA grade 6. From the South (behind the Sphinx), via a corner crack (ring) to the pillar… Rock Climbing
7+
Sfinga
UIAA grade 7+. Climb (SE) a corner crack to the plateau. Break through the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing
5
Sfinga
UIAA grade 5. From the NE via a chimney to the pillar's ledge behind the tower. Along the… Rock Climbing
4
Mamut
UIAA grade 4. In the gorge between Mamut and Žezlo, via a chimney and over two steps to… Rock Climbing
7-
Žezlo
UIAA grade 7-. In the middle of the East wall, ascend an overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Žezlo
UIAA grade 5. From the NE corner via a chimney between the edge and the tower for 30m.… Rock Climbing
7+
Žezlo
UIAA grade 7+. Climb from the South edge via a crack to the end and right along the edge … Rock Climbing
7+
Žezlo
UIAA grade 7+. Route no. 3, approx. 2m above the 2nd ring. Along the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing
8
Žezlo
UIAA grade 8. Via route no. 3 to the platform. Via the small corner and crack directly to… Rock Climbing

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