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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Placka
From the plateau side via the right edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Placka
From the plateau side via the left edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Placka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Baloun
From the SW by a diagonal crack to the end and left by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Baloun
Route 'Four' into the small cave and straight over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baloun
Center of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Baloun
From the block on the N side by wall, left (ring) to the edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Baloun
Right of the north edge by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baloun
From the valley from the NW by crack and chimney to the balcony, by crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sokolík
On the plateau side, via a chimney to the pillar. From the overhang (aid climbing), along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mošna
In the right part of the SW face via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rádža
At the upland (southern) edge via the face to the pillar, left via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krakonoš
By opposition against the upper pillar, higher up by crack to the top of the pillar, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krakonoš
From the SW via a chimney and crack to the pillar. Bouldering/stemming, wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Dálkový student
In the middle of the NW wall, by crack 1st Q, crack 2nd Q, small crack and wall 3rd Q and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Podhoubí
From the chimney between the pillars from the W (from Malá starostová), via a hand crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Podhoubí
Via the upper (from S) widening crack over the overhang to the pillars and from the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Dvojhlavá
Via the right NE crack and chimney to the pillar, traverse along the ledge to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojhlavá
Via the left upper (NE) crack to the hole. Via the crack (aiding) and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vosí věž
In the SE (upper) wall, via the wall into the gully to Q route "Baucuk". Straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Vosí věž
To the right in the SW wall, via a crack to the platform (ring). From the small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4+
Vosí věž
From the NE, via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Vosí věž
To the left of the Old Route, via a crack to a small platform to the ring (by aiding) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Svišť
From the valley side, via the chimney to the block. Via the crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Svišť
From the valley side, via the chimney to the block. Via the crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Přílba
From the plateau side (from Svist), via the chimney to the platform. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Přílba
In the left part of the NE wall, via the left crack to the balcony. Via the 'Easier Work'… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Přílba
In the approximately north wall, via the crack to its end (ring), left into another crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Přílba
In the right part of the NE wall, via the crack and chimney to the ring. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
6-
Přílba
In the left part of the NE wall, via the right crack over the overhang, right along the… Rock Climbing

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