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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Přílba
From the plateau side, via the chimney to a ledge into the inner space. By stemming to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Přílba
From the NW, via the chimney to the platform and via the crack to the pre-summit. By body… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Přílba
From Svist (Marmot), via the right crack (hourglass) to the small pillar (ring). Left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Přílba
From Svist (Marmot), via the crack (1st ring), up the wall to the 2nd ring and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Baronesa
From the valley side, with strenuous body stacking/aid to the ring. Via the crack to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Baronesa
From the plateau side (with strenuous body stacking/aid) via the crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Baronesa
In the valley wall, via the right crack (ring) to the platform, then by body stacking/aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Baronesa
From the end of the crack, traverse left across the wall, via the narrow corner/flute… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Řeřicha
To the right of the northern corner, up the crack to the ring. Left traverse across the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Řeřicha
NE crack over the small cave to the 1st and 2nd ring. Up the crack (aid climbing from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Řeřicha
In the valley (NW) face, up the chimney (1st ring) and a system of cracks to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Řeřicha
From the plateau gorge, up the crack to a small pillar, further left up the crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Řeřicha
From the block at the western corner of the tower, over the overhang and up the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4-
Řeřicha
In the right part of the SE face, up the crack and chimney to the sub-summit. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Trojník
From the NW, up the small chimney/dihedral to the ring of the Sláva trudu route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Trojník
To the left of the plateau (northern) corner of the tower, via a diagonal notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Alpská
Valley route to the block. Overhang into the hole, left up the wall to the crack and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Alpská
From the valley side, up the chimney to the block and (with aid) into the recess. Right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Alpská
Left of the western corner, ascend via a crack into the "Corner Crack" hole and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Alpská
Right of the western corner, ascend via a crack into the hole and then via the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Alpská
From the W corner, ascend via a chimney to a smaller pillar and via the wall (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Alpská
Left of the Old Route, ascend via a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4-
Alpská
From SW, ascend via a chimney to the pillar and then via a groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Alpská
Near the northern edge, ascend via a corner crack to a small platform. Then via a double… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4-
Alpská
In the right southern corner, ascend via a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Bragliho věž
In the right part of the NW face, ascend via an overhanging gully and right via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bragliho věž
In the left part of the upper wall, ascend via stemming or along the edge to the SE… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5
Bragliho věž
From NW, ascend via the corner crack (ring) and then via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Konipas
In the valley wall, ascend by building up over the 1st ring to the 2nd Q, then via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Konipas
Right into the valley wall (ring) and then friction climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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