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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Milenci
From the upper window, traverse the wall to the left, through a crack (circle) over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Milenci
In the left part of the SE wall of Milenec, up the chimney to the saddle and through a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Milenci
From Milenecká at the level of the 'letecká' shelf, up the wall and over the overhang via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Milenci
From the highest point of Milenecká Corridor, up the chimney through a recess into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Milenci
Via the chimney of the Milenecká cesta (Lovers' Way) to where it's passable to the SE… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Milenci
At the beginning of Milenecká Corridor, a crack and overhang (2 circles) into a difficult… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Milenci
From the 2nd circle of the "Letecká" wall, traverse 2 circles to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Milenci
The start is in the corner on the east side of the tower. Via a system of cracks (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
8-/8
Milenci
Via the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route into the cave (bivouac). Via opposition (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Milenci
Left of the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route via a crack to the balcony. Traverse the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Milenci
In the right part of the SE wall via a system of cracks into the cave, then a chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
To the right of the Pilíř (Pillar) tower in the corner via a chimney to the pillar (also… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the "Přes věžičky" (Over the Turrets) route to the pillar. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Milenci
From the summit of Pilíř (Pillar) tower, jump to the ledge and follow it left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Milenci
From the NW from the stream via a chimney to the ring. Via a crack to the terrace and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Milenci
Start near the Old Way directly up the chimney to the plateau, left (1st ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Milenci
From the NW, from the fore-rock, via a chimney to the ring. Traverse the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Milenci
Up the entrance chimney of St. c. all the way to the end. Left along the ledge above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the chimney of the "Přes fichtli" variant around its ring, further up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Pilíř
Via the Od branky (From the Gate) route to Milenci (Lovers) onto the terrace, then over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Pilíř
Via the crack of the Něžnost (Tenderness) route for seven meters, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Milenci
From the Lovers' Corridor via a chimney in the Milenka massif into the inner space. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Pilíř
From the NE via a crack into the small cave, then a notch to the 1st ring (aid climbing),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Uhlířská
On the east edge via a system of cracks (4 rings) under the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hranolek
From the uphill side via chimney and step-over onto the ledge. Traverse the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Samotář
From the valley up the wall to a shelf (1st ring), via a crack (2 rings) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Samotář
SE wall to the balcony and via climbing moves to the left to the ring. Via climbing moves… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Samotář
From the terrace from the NW, up the wall to the left to the edge (1st ring), up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Gondola
Via the "Benátská" (Venetian) route without technical moves to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5+
Hrad
Via the Polička route to the 1st ring, traverse right along the ledge (2nd ring) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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