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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Bragliho věž
Follow the Corner Route to the ring, traverse left to the edge and along it (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Jebáček
In the valley wall, in the left part, climb into the crack to the 1st ring. Via the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Jebáček
From SW, via a crack to the ledge to the ring. To the left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jebáček
Via the old route to the pillar (ring), then left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Jebáček
Via the old route to Lesáček to the saddle. Via a wide crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Lesáček
To the right of the start, via the chimney to the saddle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Lesáček
The start is below the center of the SE wall. Solid climbing to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Lesáček
From the slope below the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Lesáček
From the upper side, via a crack to the saddle and then a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Pohodářka
The upper part is an unusually beautifully featured little wall, easily to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Divá Bára
Via a wide crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Divá Bára
From the west edge, left via a corner and cracks 1st and 2nd ring. Up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Divá Bára
From NE to the saddle. Via a wide crack to the small pillar. Overhang and wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Divá Bára
From the pillar on the upper (SE) side, by stepping over and up the wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Křen
From the middle of the traverse of the Koutová (Corner) route, via a crack in the NW wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Křen
From the upper side, traverse along the ledge to the left to the valley side, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Křen
From the valley side, directly through a crack into the corner crack. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Culík
To the left of the route, along the edge through a crack and fissure to the end. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Culík
Directly below the rappel, up the chimney to the 2nd circle, through a crack (birch) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Culík
From the chimney of the Hranou route, traverse the wall to the right and through a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4+
Culík
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the circle and along the western edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Tři sestry
From the gap between towers, through the left crack over 2 circles to the pillar (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Tři sestry
Through a double crack in the corner over a circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Tři sestry
To the right of the route "Owl in Mazut", up the wall along the left edge over 3 circles… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Lidový vypravěč
To the right on the SW side of the tower, up the chimney to the pillar. By building … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rodinná hrobka
Through Sokolík (from the start of the Old Route variant - Over the Fichtle to Milenec)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Milenci
Opposite the start of the Old Route, up the chimney, higher up through a crack (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Milenci
From the gorge between Culík and Caparty, up the chimney to the crack of Pilířová route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Milenci
Through the chimney "C. of Sunshine" to the pillar and further along the edge of Milenec… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Milenci
From the upper window, traverse the wall to the left, through a crack (circle) over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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