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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hadí
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack (ring) to the saddle and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Hadí
From NW via a corner crack onto a small platform, then by crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Hadí
Right of the Rejnočí route via a crack to the saddle and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4+
Hadí
From SW (in the recess between the pillars) via a chimney and corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
8/8+
Hadí
Via the Dubček crack for 5m and right to the arête via Bh and 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hadí
From the 1st ring of the Antabus route via a fissure and wall (ring) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Hadí
From the balcony in the left part of the NE wall, right via a crack and fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Hadí
From the balcony in the left part of the NE wall, left by wall to a fissure (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Hadí
From the ring by wall to the left, via a fine crack and groove onto the pillar. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Hadí
In the left part of the NE wall via a narrow chimney to the ring, (with aid) via a groove… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Hadí
Left of the Old Route via a small crack and wall to the right edge of the slab. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Lvice
From NW by wall onto a block. Left with significant aid and by crack to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lvice
From SW via a chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lvice
At the west arête (from the block) by wall to the ring. Traverse right along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lvice
From NE via an off-width chimney to the ring. Right over the overhang into a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Baba Jaga
In the left part of the valley (SE) wall via a chimney, higher up to the right by crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Baba Jaga
To the right of the north corner via a conical chimney to the end, then by crack and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Baba Jaga
From the uphill side via a chimney and left along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baba Jaga
From the stemming position against a block at the north corner of the tower, left by wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Majka
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack to the pillar, then left along it and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Majka
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Majka
Left in the NW wall via opposition and a crack over the ring to the 2nd ring. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Majka
From the NE via a crack to the block, then via a chimney and a corner crack to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Majka
From the highest point of the terrain on the NE side of the tower via a narrow crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Štěně
Via the SE crack and wall to the ring. Right along the wall and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Štěně
From the valley side via cracks under the overhang, traverse right along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Schodiště
From the west across the gorge to the ledge and along it to the balcony, then up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Schodiště
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Schodiště
By the crack from Amor and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Schodiště
From W by a horizontal crack to the balcony and by a corner crack (clock) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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