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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Vřesová
In the SE wall of the SW tower by crack left to the edge to the 1st ring. By wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Vřesová
To the left of the eastern edge of the SW tower up the wall to the 1st ring. By wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Vřesová
To the left of the South Crack route, up the wall (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the South… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Vřesová
To the left of the 'Memorial Wine Bar' route, up the wall and pedestals over an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vřesová
From the SE from the inner space via a narrow chimney to the pre-summit. Via the South… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vřesová
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vřesová
From the SE via a wide crack to the pre-summit. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Klokan
Up the left part of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Klokan
Up the wall along the rounded valley (southern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Klokan
To the left of the plateau (western) edge up the wall diagonally left (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Klokan
From the forest below the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kvakoň
By crack in the SE wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bufet
Up the center of the valley (NE) wall to the ring. To the left by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Prezidentův poradce
From the fore-rock on the NW side of the tower with a step left and a crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Starostovo dvojče
From the SE via a wide crack to the pre-summit. By stacking (building) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
3
Prezidentův poradce
By chimney (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Prezidentův poradce
By crack to the fore-rock (like Žantovský's route), by crack and chimney to the tip and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Prezidentův poradce
From the fore-rock on the NW side of the tower by small pedestals and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
6
Radnice
The access is in the enclosed space between Starostová and Radnice (descent or rappel to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Radnice
From the Mouse Hole via a bold chimney and crack to the balcony (2nd rappel ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Radnice
Via the 'September Romance' route onto Starostová for about eight meters, along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Radnice
In the middle of the valley face, via a chimney and crack to the ring. Along the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Radnice
Via the 'North Corner' route without aid climbing to the ledge, and to the left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Radnice
In the left part of the valley face, via a crack, higher up via a chimney (ring) and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Radnice
To the left of the 'God's Judgment' route, follow the crack to its end and the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Radnice
Follow the corner crack of the 'Heavy Shackles' route and the crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Radnice
To the right of the route 'Hungry Corner', follow the corner crack under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Radnice
In the right part of the valley (NE) face, via a narrow chimney to the balcony. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Radnice
Through the chimney at the lower (NW) edge of the Mouse Hole to the 1st ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Radnice
Rock Climbing

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