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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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Radnice
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Radnice
From the uphill side (to the right of the SE entrance to the Mouse Hole) via a narrow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Starostová
Via the Old Route into the transverse inner chimney, right with a step-over into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Starostová
From the south side via a corner crack to the pillar, then via a chimney to the next… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Starostová
To the left of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route via a corner crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Starostová
From the valley (NE) side via the inner chimney to the blocks. Left chimney into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Starostová
To the right of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route, via a corner crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Starostová
From the 3rd ring along the edge (2 rings), higher up via grooves (ring) below the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Starostová
From SE via a corner crack (1st ring) and chimney to the pillar. From the left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Starostová
To the right on the valley side of the tower, behind the adjacent blocks, via a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5+
Starostová
From the valley (NE) side via the inner chimney to the blocks. Right chimney, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Starostová
From the tourist path above the staircase, through the corridor into the inner space to…
6-
Starostová
From the NE (from Velryba) via chimney and crack to the pillar. Aided to the ring, aided… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
Přeskok
Zvonice
From the summit of Radnice by traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zvonice
By chimney from Mouse Hole 8m to the small balcony. Traverse right (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zvonice
From NE (from Mouse Hole) by chimney and opposition to the 1st ring. By opposition and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pranýř
From SE (from the passage to the entrance of Mouse Hole) by narrow wall (3 rings) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Fortnýř
Right of the start of "Sokolík" route by crack to the ledge and along it left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Fortnýř
The start is in the SW corner. By wall diagonally left behind the edge to the ring, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Fortnýř
From NE by dihedral and crack to the ring. By aid from a sling/harness and right by small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
3
Pošťák
Between Pošťák and Malý Konšel by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Fortnýř
From SW by dihedral in the corner, by crack to the pre-summit to the ring (aid climbing)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Pošťák
Valley (NW) double crack in the corner below the overhang. By opposition and wall (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Pošťák
From the summit of Fortnýř by traverse to the small balconies. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Rychtář
Right of the Old route, by aid climbing into the crack, through it and the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Rychtář
Left of the eastern corner by wall and crack (1st ring) to the plateau. Left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Rychtář
From NE by valley crack (1st ring) to the plateau and by extensive aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Malý konšel
Via the "Přeskok" route to Velký Konšel to the cave. By wall to the right to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Malý konšel
Via the "Přeskok" route to the 1st ring and along the edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Starosta
In the southern corner (between the Mayor and the pillar), via a crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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