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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Starosta
In the southern corner (between the Mayor and the pillar), via a crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Starosta
At the eastern corner of the tower, via a crack to the block. Cracks (1st ring), right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starosta
From the hiking path to the right of the north edge, via a small chimney and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Starosta
To the left of the start, via a corner crack to a small plateau. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Starosta
On the NW face of the uphill pillar, via a shallow gully to a ledge (1st ring) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Starosta
From the left edge of the uphill corridor, by bridging to the crack and via it to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7-/7
Starosta
From the ledge above the overhang, up the wall along the western edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Starosta
To the left of the start of the Old Route, up a chimney to the pillar and via the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starosta
From the 2nd ring, up the wall over the overhang, traverse right and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Starosta
At the stairs of the hiking path, via a finger crack over the 1st and 2nd rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starosta
From the uphill side, via a crack and chimney to the pillar to the 1st ring. Overhang, …
7/7+
Starosta
To the left (corner) of Solstice to the blocks. Shallow crack to 1st ring, cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Okrajová
Via a crack to the right of the route "Family Reasons" over 2 rings, diagonally right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Okrajová
On the valley wall, via a crack (2 rings) and along the edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dalibor
From Krakonoš Park on the NE face, up a crack to the pre-summit and then up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Hladomorna
The ascent starts from Krakonošův park below the valley (NE) face. Up a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hladomorna
From the SW between Hladomorna and Napoleon, up a chimney to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hladomorna
To the right of the start of "Limb Breaking" (Lámání údů), up a chimney and crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hladomorna
From the summit of Napoleon, descend via a chimney, overhang, and gully to a plateau. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Napoleon
Via the Old Route to the fore-summit and traverse to the right part of the SW face. Up a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Napoleon
Right of the inner space, up a corner crack to the fore-summit. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hladomorna
From the start of the "Limb Breaking" route, up the left crack to its end and a fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Napoleon
At the northern edge (from Krakonošův park), up a crack to the ring. Up a small chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Napoleon
From the NE (from Krakonošův park), up a crack and chimney to the ring. Aided climb from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Napoleon
From the gorge (from the SE), up the face and a crack to a small chimney, through it and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Napoleon
From the gorge (from the SE), a wide crack to the fore-summit. Traverse right and up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Napoleon
From the SW, ascend a corner to the overgrown fore-summits and descend into the inner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Abbé
In the northeast face (from Štěpánská koruna) via 4 rings to the summit. Note: The… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Napoleon
From the overgrown fore-summit on the plateau, descend 4m along a rib into the gorge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Napoleon
Ascend the southeast face via a small crack and fissure to the 1st ring, and then via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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