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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
David
Through the uphill crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
5+
David
Through the corner crack to the pillar and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
David
From the low pillar on the NW side of the tower, through a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Poštolka
From the uphill side, traverse left to the ring. Short crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Poštolka
Along the southern edge and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Blíženci
In the right part of the SW wall, through the corner to the balcony and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Blíženci
To the left in the uphill chimney between Gemini and St. Wenceslas to the pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Blíženci
Through the chimney st. c. (Internal) to the pine, traverse on the ledge to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Blíženci
Through the chimney st. c. (Internal) to the pine. Directly through the crack to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Blíženci
Through the NE wall to the right into the window and through it into the inner space.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Bludný balvan
In the W wall, via a crack, groove/corner and left up the wall to the ring. From the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Sokolí jehla
On the left side of the plateau face, via a crack to the pillar (1st ring). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Bludný balvan
From the plateau side, over the block to the ledge, through the corner over the overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Sokolí jehla
Up the chimney to the pillar below the western edge. Via a crack (ring), fissure, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sokolí jehla
From the NW, via the corner crack (1st ring) to the pillar, then right, step right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Sokolí jehla
In the left part of the SE wall, via the corner crack over the overhang to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Sokolí jehla
From the NE, up the chimney to the block. Via a narrow crack to the second pillar below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
10
Sokolí jehla
From the balcony of the Old Falcons' Way, turn left and directly up the western edge via… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7/7+
Jelen
In the chimney between Jelen and Cvrk to a block and from there up the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Jelen
Through the center of the valley wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Svatodušní věž
Via the valley (NE) crack to the pillar to the 1st ring. With about twenty fellow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vngng
Between Vngng and the French Towers, up the chimney, higher up right behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Vngng
In the middle of the SW face, up the rib and small chimney to the ring. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Vngng
Along the right plateau edge over the step to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Vngng
From the block on the south side, step over and up the wall to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Pidimužík
From the highest point of the terrain (from the French Towers), via the chimney and from… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
?
Francouzské věže
From the gorge between the French and Malostranské Towers, along the right edge over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Pidimužík
Via the NW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Pidimužík
Up the valley wall, higher up traverse right and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Pidimužík
Along the valley edge via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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