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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Pidimužík
Along the valley edge via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Pidižena
Up the slabby plateau (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Vousatá
To the left of the West edge, via a mantle, overhang and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Vousatá
From the gorge on the SE side of the tower, via a crack to the terrace. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Vousatá
Along the South edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Vousatá
To the left of the South edge, via a mantle, overhang, and along the West edge (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Labuť
Via the valley face and crack to the false summit. Then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Labuť
From the North via the overhang to the 1st ring, diagonally right up the wall (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Labuť
From the upland side via the chimney to the false summit and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Labuť
From the NW via a crack to the false summit and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Velké káně
To the left of route "Myšilov" via the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Mravenec
From the NW terrace via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Mravenec
In the valley face via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Mravenec
From the upland fore-rock via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Raroch
Via the chimney from the SE (between Raroch and Vyhlídka) to the ring, then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Vyhlídka
To the left of the southern corner via a small corner to the pillar (ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Raroch
From Vyhlídka (from SE) via the chimney to the false summit, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Raroch
Via the North crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Vyhlídka
To the right of the southern corner via a gully to the pillar (ring), over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Vyhlídka
Along the left valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
Přeskok
Vyhlídka
In the left part of the SW face, through the chimney to the pillar. By jumping across and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Vyhlídka
Along the right valley (NE) crack, through the chimney and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Vyhlídka
From the SW, through the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Chudobka
From the SW along the corner crack to the 3rd ring of 'Sedmikráska'. Follow it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Chudobka
Traverse from the uphill side and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Chudobka
Along the slab valley wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring below the overhang. From the left up…
5+
Chudobka
From the 2nd ring of route 'Sedmikráska' to the right up the wall along small fissures to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Jiřinka
Through the right part of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Chudobka
In the right part of the valley SE wall from the block up the wall (ring) and higher to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Jiřinka
Through the left part of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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