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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Pomněnka
From the SE, traverse to the ring and up the wall, higher to the right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jiřinka
Along the left crack from the valley side to the ledge, through the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Jiřinka
Along the right valley crack to the fore-summit, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Pomněnka
From the block on the valley side through fissures to the 1st ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Pomněnka
In the NW wall through fissures to the 1st ring, up the small chimney to the 2nd ring, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Pomněnka
From the NE along a crack into the recess and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
4
Pomněnka
To the right of the Old Route through a narrow chimney to the platform. Chimneys to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Pomněnka
From the valley side through the chimney or a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Pomněnka
To the right of the eastern edge over the detached blocks and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Pomněnka
From the valley side to the right of Éterická, through a narrow chimney and a crack to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Vaněk
From the NE along a crack to the 1st ring. To the right along the fissure and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Vaněk
In the right part of the SW wall (between Vanek and Simon) through a small corner over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Vaněk
The ascent starts from the gorge between Vanek and Simon. To the left along a crack to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Vaněk
From the uphill side through the chimney at the eastern edge to the ledge, along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Vaněk
Traverse between Efendi and Vanek over 2 silver rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vaněk
Along the wall from the ramp of the Old Route along the eastern edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Vaněk
From the summit of Efendi (at the northern corner) descend the wall to the pillar and by… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7-/7
Šimon
In the left part of the NE wall, along a winding crack to the ring. Up a shallow gully to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Šimon
In the valley (SW) wall through the chimney in the corner to the platform and a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4
Šimon
From the NW, via the chimney and double crack to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Šimon
From the gorge between Šimon and Efendi, via a crack (ring) and a chimney to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Kurýr
Along the right valley (southern) edge straight over 2 rings to the 3rd ring, one meter… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kurýr
Via the Window route, to the platform in the valley wall, then right to the left valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kurýr
Via the upper (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6
Kurýr
From the valley side, via a crack over an overhang and left to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Efendi
From the balcony, up the wall to the left (hourglass) and straight to the ring. Without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Efendi
To the right of the Old Route, via a crack along the edge to the balcony. Straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Kurýr
At the base of the upper wall through a window to the platform on the valley side of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Efendi
Via the Cow Trail route to the platform. To the left up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Efendi
From the corner below the right part of the valley wall, via a hawk's flight and a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3

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