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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Zloděj
SW crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang +1
5+
Džudy
SE wall and left to the ring. Wall traverse right to the edge, then build and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4
Džudy
From NE via the chimney to the pillar. Along the wall to the left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Džudy
From the plateau on the SW side, up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Džudy
From NW via the chimney to the pillars, left via the chimney to the ledge, in it left and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Orion
In the valley face by crack to the ring. By wall and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Orion
In the right part of the NE face by crack to the ring and left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Orion
From the block on the plateau (NW) side left by wall and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Orion
From the block on the plateau (NW) side traverse by wall right into the crack and through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Venuše
From the path on the SW side of the rock formation, steep terrain below the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Venuše
Left of route “Time is Fleeting” by corner crack (ring), further by crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Venuše
By the route “Magic to the Summit” to the ledge below the 3rd ring and entirely to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Venuše
NW face, higher up by crack near the edge into a crack and through it (ring) to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Venuše
By crack in the NW face to the 1st ring, beyond the edge traverse SW face to the right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Venuše
By the route “Magic to the Summit” to the 3rd ring and right (= middle) crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mars
From the SW from the inter-tower gap, left up the crack to the pillar. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
Přeskok
Mars
Along the east edge to the crack, up that (1st ring) and along the edge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Mars
Up the crack in the corner to the left of the SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Mars
From the valley end of the inter-tower gap, up the chimney and crack in the SW face of… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
6
Mars
Up the right NE crack to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Mars
The start is on the NW side of the rock formation. Up the crack to the pillar, up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6
Mars
From the NE, up the chimney, traverse right, and up the S-shaped crack to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Borovička
Along the left uphill edge up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Borovička
From the SE, up the crack or the corner to its right to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Borovička
Up the center of the NE face past two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Borovička
To the right of the valley edge, up the crack (ring) to the fore-rock, then (presumably)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Borovička
From the fore-rock over the west edge to the right into the wall, higher up back onto the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Borovička
Directly up the 'salted' overhanging edge of the NE face to the 1st ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Borovička
From the boulder on the uphill side, traverse right to the 1st ring. Along the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Rozcestník
In the middle of the NE face by a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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