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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Gamin
From the pedestal up the center of the NW face over an overhang into an alcove and by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Rozcestník
Up the plateau face via an hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Rozcestník
From the south by the face to the ring and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Rozcestník
To the left of the "SE Route" by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Skrytá
From the left part of the gorge, traverse the face diagonally left over the north edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Skrytá
From the plateau side to the boulder, in the overhang to the left and through a hole to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Skrytá
From the boulder in the plateau gorge traverse the face to the right to a small platform… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Plch
From the uphill side, via a wet crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bedrník
Via the small uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6
Bedrník
To the right of the East corner, via a crack (ring) to the SE pillar. Via Mirkova cesta … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Bouzek
Via the South wall to the ledge and left to the ring, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Bouzek
From the block on the uphill side, right by wall near the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Bouzek
Via the uphill wall along the left edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Bedrník
From SW, via a crack to the pillar. With technical movement and along the left edge to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Tomahavk
From the passage from Bouzek (SW), via a gully with cracks to a small balcony (K), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tomahavk
From the uphill side, via a small chimney over the balcony and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Tomahavk
To the right of the West corner, by wall right to the ring. To the right by wall behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Manitou
Via the Skalp route to the 1st platform, directly by crack and flake Q to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Manitou
Via the valley conical chimney (1st ring), crack and wall (2nd ring) over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Manitou
In the NE wall, by crack Q to the second Q, then through the corner to the balcony. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Manitou
Via the corner crack in the South wall (2Q) and wall to the 3rd Q “Ploché dráhy” (Flat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Manitou
From Tomahawk, descend 2m, traverse/overhang and by aid to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Manitou
From the S crack and chimney to the 1st ledge. To the right to the second ledge, further… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Manitou
Via the upper (west) ridge over a shelf to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Nuget
From the valley side, via a crack and face to the 1st ring, traverse left via the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Manitou
Via the valley (SW) crack and chimney to a shelf. Left via the face and a groove to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
4
Nuget
Via the upper crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Nuget
Via the upper (west) ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4
Nuget
Via the valley (SE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Vyšehrad
From the upper side, up steps to the inter-towers. Traverse to the pillar, overhang and… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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