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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kobylka
From the NW, via a chimney and crack over an overhang to the balcony. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Kobylka
Up the wall along the crack in the NE face (ring) and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Kolíček
In the middle of the NW wall via a crack to the pillar and via the 'Normálka' (Normal)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Kolíček
In the valley (NE) face, via a crack to a ledge and then up the wall to the right, past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Kolíček
Via the 'Bass Clef' route to the ledge and traverse right along it to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
4
Kolíček
To the right on the SE side of the tower via a chimney to the pillar. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Kolíček
In the middle of the SE wall via a crack and corner to the ring. Via a fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Kolíček
Near the west edge via the wall to the 1st ring, right via a small chimney and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Kolíček
Diagonal crack left of the SE corner to the 1st ring, opposing to the pillar to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Rusalka
From NE via a crack and chimney to the pillar. Aiding to the 1st ring, aiding from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zombie
To the right of the Voodoo route, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Zombie
From the plateau side through the chimney and overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Zombie
From the plateau inter-tower via a crack and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
?
Zombie
From the gorge via the middle crack to the pillar and by double jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
?
Zombie
Left crack from the gorge to the pillar, with a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Popraviště
Left part of the plateau wall through the chimney to the platform. With significant… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zombie
From the tourist path (from NW) by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Zombie
Southern corner from the tourist path to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Jóžin z bažin
SE crack to the pillar and via the 'Dusting Plane' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Jóžin z bažin
NW crack to the pillar and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Pacholek
From the south corner, by the wall diagonally right to the ring. Right by crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pacholek
In the right part of the through chimney between Pacholek and Kat, by a wide chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pacholek
In the left part of the through chimney (same as the variant of the From the Gorge route)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pacholek
In the middle of the upper wall of Kat (right of the route "Hemp Noose") by a wide… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pacholek
By the inner (NW) chimney to the false summit. By the Autumn Route to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pacholek
From Vyhlídka na Starostu, by a crack between Pacholek and Tukan into the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pacholek
From the tourist viewpoint Vyhlídka na Starostu, by a wide chimney/stemming to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pacholek
By the chimney of the Mužíková route, by a wide chimney/stemming left, by stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pacholek
From NE, by crack and wall left past the edge to a small platform below the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pacholek
Left of the south corner, by a wide chimney into a constriction and right by a crack into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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