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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Pacholek
From the platform of the Kampanove route onto the Sugar Refinery Chimney via a dynamic… Rock Climbing
5+
Pacholek
Left of the south corner, by a wide chimney into a constriction and right by a crack into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kat
By the Blood Route (without building) to the end of the crack above the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kat
From the ring of the Hlavolam route, left to the ring. Right by the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kat
From the ring of the German Route, by the wall left into a gully and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Kat
By the chimney between Kat and Pacholek, by the wall and friction climb past 8 rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kat
From Pacholka's pillar, by an overhang and building to the ring. Building from a stance… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kat
From the pillar, traverse the wall left to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kat
From the valley side, by a corner to the 1st ring, (building from a stance) by a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Venušin pahorek
Via a small pillar in the valley wall over the ring to the end and onto the edge of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Venušin pahorek
Via the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4-
Špalek
From the saddle via the chimney to the pillar. Via a traverse and climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Špalek
At the eastern edge via a small pillar and crack to the ledge. Via the Blood Gully route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Špalek
Via the middle NE crack to the ledge. Via the Blood Gully route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Spare Route
5
Špalek
Via the right NE crack to the ledge, in it left into the crack of the Násek route and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Želva
The access is to the right of the Old Route under the arch. Via the corner crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Špalek
From the NW, from the saddle, via the wall left behind the edge and via a groove to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Želva
To the right of the western edge via a crack into the ledge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Želva
In the valley to the left, start via the "Valley Route". Overhang into the crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Želva
Via the eastern corner crack into the opposition (1st ring), to the right via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Želva
To the right of the Ninjis route via a crack to the ledge and to the right (piton) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Želva
From the valley (NE) corner via a crack and chimney to the pillars. Traverse to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Želva
From the NW terrace via a crack (ring) into the chimney (2nd ring) and through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9/9+
Želva
From the small balcony to the left of the Old Road via the edge (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Želva
Follow the "Old Route" several meters up and left via a crack into the recess. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Řepa
From the SW via small pillars and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Řepa
Between Řepa and House of Lost Souls via opposition (ring), building up and edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Sacramento
To the right of the "Old Road" via the wall and crack to the balcony. Through the chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Sacramento
In the left part of the SE wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Řepa
To the right of the route "DynamoKante" from the lowest point of the terrain via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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