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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Vrchol drzosti
From the south or north to the saddle. Aid climbing to the ring and via the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Věž dvou kamarádů
From the NW via a system of chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Trubadúrek
Valley 'bear' route via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Žolík
From Kibic via the high-lying crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Žolík
On the western edge from a layback up the wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Žolík
Right of "Náhorní" (Upper/Highland) via cracks and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Cukrovarský komín
From the tourist viewpoint 'Vyhlídka na Starostu', up the crack in the northern corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Cukrovarský komín
Left of the Cukrová spára (Sugar Crack) route, up the chimney and wider crack (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Cukrovarský komín
Between Karbanik and Domov důchodců (Retirement Home), up the chimney to the pillar.…
6+/7-
Cukrovarský komín
From the tourist viewpoint 'Vyhlídka na Starostu', up the crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Kibic
To the left of the northern edge, by crack to the pillar. Overhang and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kibic
From the gorge, up the corner crack to the pillar. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Kibic
From S, by crack to the pillar to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kibic
From SW, by crack to the balcony and up the wall to the ring. By building up from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
3
Kibic
From SE, up the chimney to the pillar and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kibic
From SE (from Hlavsova Tower) up the wall along the edge of the middle pillar (3 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Kominíček
From the grassy ledge on the NW side of the tower, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kominíček
Via the offwidth/chimney between Kominíček and Koledníček all the way to the end and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kominíček
Up the wall along the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavsova
Up the NW face (2 rings) to the 3rd ring of the Cejdčko route and then via that to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Hlavsova
The start is in the NE corner. Via a crack and right up the wall to the 1st ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Hlavsova
From the block below the SE face, by stepping over and up the wall to the detached block.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hlavsova
From SE from the fore-rock, via a crack to a small platform. Via a crack to the detached… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Hlavsova
Along the left plateau edge past 2 rings to the 3rd ring of 'Cejdčka', then via that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Soupeřská
Via the crack of the Western Edge route and left up the wall to the 1st ring. Left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Soupeřská
In the valley face, via a crack to its end and from the left up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Soupeřská
From the right plateau corner, via a crack to the pillar, then with aid and up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
5
Soupeřská
From the left plateau corner, via a double crack to a block and then a sloping crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kobylka
Via a crack in the SE face (ring) to its end and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Kobylka
From the saddle between Kobylka and Kolíček, up the wall to the 1st ring. Left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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