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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Sacramento
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Sacramento
Northwest chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Sacramento
Northeast crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Adršpašská brána
Southeast corner crack to the saddle and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Adršpašská brána
From the western edge, via a crack to its end. Traverse the wall to the left and up a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Adršpašská brána
From the NE, along the finger crack (ring) to the edge. Via a narrow crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Adršpašská brána
From the gate passage, by opposition and stepping over into the saddle. Then via the Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Adršpašská brána
Northwest crack to the saddle and a slanted small crack in the valley wall to the left to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Adršpašská brána
From the saddle, to the right via a small crack in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7+/8-
Delikvent
From the sub-peak of Malá Gilotina (Small Guillotine), by abseil and up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Delikvent
From the sub-peak of Malá Gilotina (Small Guillotine), by stepping over and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts in the corner on the plateau side. Up the wall and crack to the window,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Rekrut
From the SE, via a slanted crack to the 1st ring. Via the wall (2nd, 3rd, 4th ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rekrut
From the NW, via a small pillar and crack to the ledge. Via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Rekrut
Via a crack from the tourist path to the 1st and 2nd rings. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Rekrut
Via the upper crack to the balcony. Right via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Železná
From the upper gorge, via a slanted notch to the 1st ring. Via the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Železná
Via the Old Route to the 1st ring, traverse right to the edge (ring), around it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Srpnová
Via the right upper crack and right via the chimney to the pre-summit. Via the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Svatojánek
From the inter-tower from the SE wall (ring) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Svatojánek
Via the valley wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring. By aid climbing from a harness and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Poradce
From the SE, via a crack to the 1st ring, left up the wall to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Poradce
At the northern corner, via a crack or by wedging against a block and a crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Skluzavka
NE chimney to the platform and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poradce
From the uphill side, through the chimney to the window. Right via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Sklerotnice
Up the center of the valley (SE) wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally right up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Sklerotnice
Left of the west corner, up a small chimney to the pillar and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Sklerotnice
In the NE wall to the left via a crack (1st ring) to the ledge and along it to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Sklerotnice
From the gorge on the NW side of the tower, via small cracks and a small fissure to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7+/8-
Studna
Through a small crack in the south face (2 rings) to the 3rd ring and slightly right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall +1

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