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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Chrám sv. Barbory
Traverse the wall above the overhang to the right into the chimney in the NE wall and up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Chrám sv. Barbory
Via the chimney from the passage on the south side (or a crack) to the pillar, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Chrám sv. Barbory
Between the tower and Mnich (under the abseil point) up the wall to the left (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Chrám sv. Barbory
From SW via a chimney to the pillar. By stepping over and up the wall (added ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kudlanka
From the valley (NE) side by stemming against the pillar, right up the wall into a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Kudlanka
In the left part of the valley wall via a conical chimney to the ring, a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Chrám sv. Barbory
In the right part of the NW wall below the abseil point, up the wall and via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kudlanka
From NE via a dirty/grassy chimney around the tree and a wide crack/section to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Kudlanka
From the upper (SW) side via a chimney, higher up via a crack and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
10
Kudlanka
Start at the valley edge and over the jugs/holds (ring) right into the crack via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Krásná Helena
From NE via a 5m chimney, traverse left and then via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Krásná Helena
In the left part of the NW wall via a crack to the balcony, then left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Krásná Helena
From the west via a small chimney to the pillar, then by stepping over and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Krásná Helena
From the north via a corner crack to the pillar. Up the wall (ring) to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Krásná Helena
From NW via the ramp (ring) directly up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Zelí
From NW via a crack in the corner to the end, traverse the wall left and follow the … Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Zelí
Opposition against Maruša, step over to the ledge and along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Zelí
SE wall traverse left to the ring and along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Zelí
Crack in the SE wall to the ledge (ring), traverse right to the edge, via the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Maruš
Plateau wall and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Maruš
Valley wall to the ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Malý roh
Crack between the routes Blues for a Crazy Girl and Bastard (Q) to the ledge, then right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Invalidovna
From the west through the corner (1st ring), via a small pinnacle (2nd ring), along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Invalidovna
Northeastern crack to the balcony and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Invalidovna
From the valley (from NW) via a small chimney to the balcony. Up the wall along the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Invalidovna
Up the wall from the SW (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Invalidovna
At the right plateau edge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Hafuša
Along the western edge (added ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Sirael
Via the south face over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Česílko
From the N via the crack to the foresummit/fore-rock, traverse right to the pine tree,… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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