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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Slimák
To the right in the plateau wall to the right and via a chimney to a ledge. Like route C.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Slimák
To the left in the plateau wall via a crack to a ledge and along the left edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mužík
In the left part of the valley (south) wall through a system of chimneys to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mužík
From the pine tree to the left (ring). With a friction climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mužík
Via a prominent crack from the Southeast into a recess, over an overhang (ring), through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Lapka
Via the left valley crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Koš na hlavy
Up the right part of the east pyrite face (without stepping off) to the ring and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Čínská chocholatá
From the N corner up the slanted crack to its end, step over to the right, up the double… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Čínská chocholatá
Up the corner crack to its end and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Mumlavská věž
From North to West fore-summit and from West to the summit block. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8-
Lom
Rock Climbing
5+
Lom
Rock Climbing
6-
Lom
Rock Climbing
8+
Lom
Rock Climbing
9-
Lom
Rock Climbing
8-
Lom
To the right of Ohnišťovka over a bolt to a ledge and over three more bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Lom
Rock Climbing
4+
Lom
Rock Climbing
4
Lom
Rock Climbing
6+
Lom
Rock Climbing
5-
Lom
Rock Climbing
9-
Lom
Rock Climbing
8-
Lom
Note: var. Campfire from right 7- (Čížek - Chloupek) - traverse in the middle of the wall… Rock Climbing
8
Lom
Note: Variant 8+ (Chloupek - Čížek) - like Artefact to the 2nd Q, from there immediately… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Lom
Note: var. Acceleration 7- (Jiří Šedivý) - finish up the wall directly Rock Climbing
3
Lom
Rock Climbing
6
Lom
Rock Climbing
5-
Lom
Note: var. Criss-cross 4 (Jiří Šedivý) - after the initial chimney, traverse to the exit… Rock Climbing
5-
Lom
Rock Climbing
5-
Lom
Note: Variant 5 (Šedivý - Matouš) - in the upper part from the left Rock Climbing

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