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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Sirael
Via the NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Sirael
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Sirael
To the left of the 'Valley Crack' route via a small crack to the pillar and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Satyr
From the north via the crack to the balcony with the pine tree and via the 'Satyr's Dream… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Česílko
From the S via the crack and chimney to the foresummit/fore-rock, traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Česílko
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Česílko
Via the 'Pink Ribbon' route to the pine tree, 3 m right, via small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Satyr
From the SE via the corner crack and crack to the 1st ring, left to the 2nd ring. Wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Satyr
From the west via the left crack and chimney into the gully between towers. Right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Satyr
From the N via the chimney between the pillar and the tower, traverse to the balcony with… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Satyr
From the SW via the corner and left via the crack to the pillar, left via the crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Ušatý Gríša
From the tourist path via small pillars/spires and the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Ušatý Gríša
Start from the gully between towers (between Bakchantka and the tower) via 4 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Satyr
From the gully between towers to the left of the east corner via the chimney to the small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Ušatý Gríša
In the right part of the NW face via the gully to the pre-summit and right via the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Bakchantka
Via the 'Second Wind' route on Bacchus to the block. Left via the wall (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Ušatý Gríša
In the left part of the NW face via the gully and small chimney to the pre-summit. Wall … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Bakchantka
Via the descent route on Bacchus to the tops of the blocks in the gully between towers.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Bakchantka
From the small cave via the chimney and crack directly over the overhang. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Bakchantka
To the left of the small cave in the NE face, climbing (with artificial aids) to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
8/8+
Bakchantka
To the left of the east edge via the wall to the 1st ring. Wall to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Bakchus
From the NW corner to the block, wall to the ledge, then left into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8-/8
Bakchus
To the right of the Old Route via the edge (1st ring) and right along the wall (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Bakchus
In the left part of the NW face, via the chimney and crack over the overhang to the pre… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5
Bakchus
From the NE via a narrow gully to the 1st ring (aid climbing from a seat) and via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Bakchus
Via the old route to the ring, over an overhang, traverse left in the ledge to the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Bakchus
In the eastern corner via a double crack to a block and to the right via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Žebrák
To the left of the plateau edge (ring) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Žebrák
From the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Slimák
To the right in the plateau wall to the right and via a chimney to a ledge. Like route C.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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