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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Efendi
Via the Cow Trail route to the platform. To the left up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Efendi
From the corner below the right part of the valley wall, via a hawk's flight and a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
6+/7-
Efendi
To the left of the valley (southern) edge, via a hawk's flight in the corner over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Efendi
Via the East Pillar (right of "Mood Stabilizer") over 3 rings, from the left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Efendi
Via the route "Mood Stabilizer" to the widening and left up the wall to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Efendi
In the right part of the SE wall, via a crack (1st ring) to a balcony and a small chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2+
Efendi
From the NE, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Efendi
To the right of the 'Upper Rock' route, up the wall and a small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Efendi
In the left part of the upper side, traverse left to the 1st ring. Up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Efendi
In the middle of the upper wall via a hawk's flight or from the left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Efendi
In the right upper (northern) edge, via a crack to the ring. Up the wall to the left onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Efendi
Through the chimney to the upper side to the boulder, from there over a bulge to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Efendi
From the plateau side between Efendi and Vaněk, traverse along a grassy ledge and over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Efendi
From the gorge between Efendi and Šimon (in the NW corner under a roof-like overhang) via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Efendi
3 meters to the right of the corner of the route "As in the Old Days", via the corner … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Efendi
In the corner between Vaněk and Efendi (left of the Raven's Pillar) through a narrow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Efendi
From the lower part of the chimney, traverse into the left chimney, up it to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Efendi
Via the "Old Route" chimney to the ledge and right up the wall and edge over 3 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Efendi
In the left part of the valley wall, via a sloping corner and crack to a small platform.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Školník
From SW via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Školník
Northern edge to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Školník
Western wall to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Efendi
From the gorge between Efendl and Kurýr, diagonally left via a crack to the pine tree and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Školník
From the plateau side, up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Bražecká
Up the wall along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Bražecká
From SW from the block, diagonally left up the wall to the western edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Bražecká
NE wall and above the window via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5
Bražecká
From the block by the window, up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Džudy
NW crack (ring) to the pillar and via the Náhorní hrana (Plateau Edge) route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Zloděj
SW crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang +1

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