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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Hrobař
From the W, up a crack to the fore-summit, traverse (ring) and right along the face into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Hrobař
Right of the southern edge, up the face to the 1st ring. Along the edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Abbé
From the SE, from the fore-summit, up a small chimney and a crack to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5
Hrobař
From the gorge from Abbé's Route, up a crack to the fore-summit. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Hrobař
Using a wide crack (opposing walls) on Štěpánská koruna and up the face (aided from the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Hrobař
Up a crack over two small ledges to the fore-summit and then via the Northwest Crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Štěpánská koruna
Aided climb from a wide crack from an older ring from Abbé's Route, 2 rings, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Štěpánská koruna
Via the right SW crack to the SW summit. Descend to the saddle and then via the Plateau… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
The ascent starts from the plateau side from Hrobař. Traverse through a chimney below the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8/8+
Štěpánská koruna
Start to the right of the "Pimp's Dance" route. By the wall (4 rings) into the crack of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
Start to the right of the "Lower var. Valley Route". By a crack to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Direct Variant of Little Red Riding Hood's Way left by a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the edge of the Terrace by an overhanging corner and a crack to the platform. By a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Štěpánská koruna
From the terrace on the valley side by the route "By the Corner" several meters up. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Štěpánská koruna
To the left of Tublatanka by a sharp edge over a ring to the 2nd ring below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the left by a corner crack to the pillar (climbed from the pillar without aid). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Terrace to the left of the start of the Old Route by the wall to the narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the chimney of the Old Route by stepping left, by a crack to the pillar (2nd rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Terrace by a chimney and in the upper part by a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Borovicová
In the SE wall by a narrow chimney-like crack to a small platform and by a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Borovicová
To the left of "Overhanging" by the wall to a small balcony and narrow chimneys, and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Borovicová
Up the valley wall and a crack to the ledge and a small crack to 1st Q, by a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Borovicová
From the SW by a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Párátko
By wall from the east. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Párátko
From W by crack (ring), by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Párátko
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kohout
Left in the SW wall to the pre-summit. Descent, step over and by edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kohout
In the valley wall by a narrow crack, right by wall and crack to the 1st ring. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kohout
From the SW by chimney to the plateau between Kohout and Slepice. By climbing and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
David
From the low pillar on the NW side of the tower, through a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3

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