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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6
Sanktuarium
From the gorge from Kejklíř, in the left part of the wall over a small overhang into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
4
Sanktuarium
Rock Climbing
2
Puklý démon
By the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Puklý démon
Left in the SE wall via small pillars to the ring and via small pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Puklý démon
By stepping over from the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Puklý démon
From NE traverse in the crack left past the edge into the SE wall, along it in ledges to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Palestra
Along the North ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Palestra
By chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Puklý démon
By crack and wall from SE to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Masiv vpravo od Veksláka
By chimney between Vekslák and the right massif 4 m, traverse right to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Masiv za Mrázkem
Left of the large depression by crack and wall (1st ring). Along the wall (2nd ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Boule
From the chimney to the SW ridge and along it via 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Buková stěna
Along the NE wall via 3 rings to the ledge (summit book). Descent left via overgrown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Bojsova
From the massif by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Boule
In the right part of the SW wall along the edge (5 rings) to the 6th ring, along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bojsova
From W by chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bojsova
Along the V edge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bojsova
From the right valley edge through the center of the northern wall via a hole (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bojsova
From S by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bar u Vočka
By finger crack to the small balcony and to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bar u Vočka
Start in the corner near Mons Olympus, briefly upwards and left to the balcony. Higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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