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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6+/7-
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree' route for 5 m, traverse right to the 1st ring. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kovář
Along the west ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kovář
Between Kovár and Marína, through the chimney and left up the wall to the west ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kovář
From the north (left from the valley side) along the slab to the right under the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Marína
Via the 'Po flámu' route to the balcony. Traverse to the south ridge and along the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Marína
From the NE, through the chimney between Marína and Havran to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marína
Via the 'Western' route to Kovadlina to the ledge. In the left part of the wall, an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Marína
From the summit of Havran, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Marína
From the north, up the cracks to the ledge, then via a small chimney and wall to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Marína
From the SW, left via the crack to the block. Up the wall (ring) to the ring of the 'Po… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the SW, via a double crack to the balcony in the chimney between Marína and Havran.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marína
Through the chimney between Marína and Kovadlina, then a double crack and a crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Marína
From the chimney between Marína and Kovadlina, using opposition and up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the start of the 'Po flámu' route, up the wall through the hole to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kovadlina
To the right of the start of "Western" up the wall to the balcony and right (crosses … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Inženýr – Kominík
The start is at the left upper edge. Left up the wall (1st ring) to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kovadlina
Through the valley chimney to the ledge and via the 'Western' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kovadlina
From the 3rd ring, straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kovadlina
To the right of Buchara, via a gully to the ring. Up the small crack and wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kovadlina
At the west corner, through the chimney and crack to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kovadlina
Up the valley wall over 3 rings, at the 3rd ring's ledge traverse right into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Kovadlina
Through the crack in Marína, then the chimney and opposition to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kovadlina
From the NE, through the chimney between Kovadlina and Marína to the ledge. Along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Palička
From the fore-rock on the SE side to the first and second rings, up the wall (3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kovadlina
From the ledge, up the center of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6+/7-
Palička
Up the valley wall diagonally right to the edge (1st ring). Along the edge and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Palička
At the south edge, via aid climbing and up the wall to the balcony. Up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Perlík
Via the NE crack to the ledge and the 'Fat Trunk' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Perlík
To the left of the north edge, via a crack over the overhang to the ring and left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Perlík
From the upper side, traverse left up the wall past the south edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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