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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6
Ikaros
Via Včelí cesta along the ramp to the valley side. Up the gully and wall to the gangway,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ikaros
Middle of the upper wall to the 1st ring, right up the wall and small gullies to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ikaros
From the ramp of Včelí (Špinavá) route, up the wall to the ledge. Easy standing and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ikaros
From the upper side, along the ramp left, up the wall to the pine tree (via a ladder) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Ikaros
In the left part of the upper wall via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čertovy kameny
From the western fore-rock, up a short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brhlík
From the W fore-rock, step over and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brhlík
From the upper part, up the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Brhlík
Up the gully on the SE side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čertovy kameny
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertovy kameny
Through the chimney from the East. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bouřlivá
Along the wall at the left valley edge to the holes and traverse right to the ledge. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bouřlivá
From the balcony via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bouřlivá
From the upper side to the left onto the ledge and along the wall to the balcony. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bouřlivá
In the upper wall via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bradavice
To the right of the Pre-Sport route, along the wall to the sub-summit and via the Pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bouřlivá
In the left part of the south face, via a crack and small columns to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bradavice
The start is the same as the Compromise route. Traverse right along the wall (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bradavice
Start to the right of the 'Blind Birds' route. Bridging against the boulder. Overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bradavice
The start is below the left part of the valley wall. Through cracks (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Bradavice
In the right part of the NW face via a small column and wall to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bradavice
Through the center of the SE face to the 1st ring. Left along the wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Bradavice
To the right of the south edge, along the wall over the overhang behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Bradavice
To the left of the Gambrinus route, via the overhanging wall (1st ring) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Bradavice
Along the wall (3 rings) to the sub-summit. Via the "Pre-Sport" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Bradavice
From the block below the south edge, traverse along the wall to the left (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bradavice
Through the chimney of the Pre-Sport route to the sub-summit. Overhang to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bradavice
Through the upper chimney to the sub-summit, along the wall (artificial steps) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Bradavice
Rock Climbing
8/8+
Bradavice
In the right part of the valley's south face, over 4 rings (of which the 3rd ring is the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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