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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Baba Jaga
Diagonally left up the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Královna krásy
Middle of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Královna krásy
Right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Královna krásy
Small corner and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Královna krásy
Southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Májovka
From the SE, up the chimney and over a large wedged block to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Májovka
On the SE side from the intermediate tower, traverse the wall right to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lokomotiva
From the east, up the crack-chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lokomotiva
Rock Climbing
4
Skála Beaty
SW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Májovka
Rock Climbing
5+
Skála Beaty
NE crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Gemini
At the right upper edge, up the wall to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skála Beaty
Right upper crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Skála Beaty
Up the valley wall, crack, and slab (6 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Skála Beaty
The start is at the right upper edge. Up the wall to the block and via a small crack or… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Apollo
From the SW, up the chimney for about ten meters, traverse the wall left and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
5
Gemini
Via the route From the Gorge to Apollo to the large balcony. Left via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Gemini
In the NW wall, up the crack to the ledge, left via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Apollo
SW edge (3 rings) to Dýchánková c., then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Dvojhlavá
At the northern edge, up the wall, higher via a small crack to the balcony (via a ladder)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Apollo
Up the upper chimney to the large balcony. Via a ladder and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
On the ledge, traverse right and along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
From the ledge, diagonally left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvojhlavá
From the upper gorge, up the chimney to the pillar. Traverse, up the wall along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
Up the upper chimney to the block and right up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Dvojhlavá
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
On the valley side of the tower, follow a system of chimneys to the highest block below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Ikaros
Up the wall to the right of the eastern edge and via a notch to a small balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvojhlavá
From the NE, up the chimney and along the pillars left to the ring. Via a ladder from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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