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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
7-/7
Smaik
From E through a crack and wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Left to the 3rd ring and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Smaik
Via the "Bergbabys Club Route" to the 2nd ring and right along the edge over 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kejklíř
From the plateau gorge, up the wall left behind the edge (ring) to the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Through the center of the valley face and a small chimney over the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Smaik
From the ring of the First Spring Falls route, up the crack to the 2nd ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Smaik
From the second ring of the Mock's Kiss route directly up the wall to the 3rd ring and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Via the middle valley crack (2 rings) to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Smaik
Via the left valley crack and chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Smaik
From the plateau side, traverse left along the ledge and up the wall to the 'hours'. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Smaik
Via the right valley overhanging crack and chimney to the pillar. Right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Smaik
Step across to the small balcony below the W edge. Along the edge (3 rings) to the false… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Páže
From the base of the W face, up the wall over 'hours' and one ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2
Smaik
In the right part of the plateau face via the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smaik
Left on the plateau side via the crack to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Páže
At the right plateau edge onto the ledge, left and then a steep section below the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Prostředník
In the fall line of the west ridge, up the crack directly to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Prostředník
On the SW side, up the wall (ring) left and along the west edge (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Prostředník
Up the plateau face left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tyrolačka
Right of the Descent Chimney route, via the crack and chimney to the flake. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Prostředník
Up the plateau face diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Brouček
Via the SW chimney to the balcony, then via the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brouček
Rock Climbing
6-
Tyrolačka
Via the left part of the SW face and crack to the balcony. Traverse the wall right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Tyrolačka
Up 4m via the "Trough" and left to the 1st ring, traverse in holes (2nd ring) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tyrolačka
From the valley side, via the left chimney to the ring. Traverse left behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tyrolačka
From SW via the overhanging corner and crack to the 1st ring. Via the gully to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tyroláci
From the plateau side (right of the St. route) along the right pillar (5 rings) up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2
Tyrolačka
From the fore-rock between Tyrolačka and Tyroláci, via the chimney in the NE face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tyrolačka
From the fore-rock below the NE face, via an overhang and up the wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tyrolačka
Along the right valley edge (right of the Trough route) 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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