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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
7-/7
Nutrie
Along the left valley edge under the overhang, by crack to the end and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Nutrie
By chimney between Nutrie and Ondatra to the ring. By small chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Mrázek
In the valley wall through cracks over 2 rings and along the edge of the chimney (not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mrázek
By the wall along the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Mrázek
From the edge (2 rings + one hour) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mrázek
In the left part of the south wall by crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Morana
On the plateau side between Morana and Mrázek, through the chimney into a divergence,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morana
On the way, we will be afraid of the wedged block and traverse right along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Morana
From the Giant Hall, by crack and chimney to blocks. Through the chimney to pillars,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Morana
From the SW, from the through chimney via a corner crack to a wedged block. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mons Olympus
From the plateau inter-tower, by chimney and wall to the ring. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Morana
By overhang on the W side of the tower into a ledge, traverse left into the chimney, 4m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Svobodník
From the plateau side, through the chimney to a block and along the edge to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Balú
From the plateau side, by crack, chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balú
SW chimney to the pillar. Right along the wall and gully to the balcony. Along the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balú
From the gorge corner on the east side, by chimney to a block. By building to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balú
At the right plateau edge, by wall and crack to the ledge. Left into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Šerchán
Via the route Fool's Dream to the pillar. Right along the wall along the edge (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Šerchán
Along the valley overhanging edge, 6 rings to the pillar, then via the route Tiger's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šerchán
From the east corner, by crack to the 1st ring. Right by crack to the 2nd ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šerchán
From the gorge on the NW side, by chimney to the pillar. Left by cracks to the end,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Džungle
Along the edge through small holes and cracks (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Šerchán
Via the Winter route to Mowgli's, to the start of the crack in the inner chimney. Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Maugli
In the inter-tower on the NE side of the tower, by chimney, opposition and wall right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Džungle
From the square, by crack-chimney to the point and left along the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Maugli
In the middle of the SW wall (2 rings) to the 1st ring of the route Through the Forest.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Maugli
In the left part of the SW wall, by corner crack (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. By crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Maugli
From the 6th ring, straight up the wall (ring) and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Maugli
From the 3rd ring of the Wilderness route, right along the wall to the 1st ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kniha
By crack between pillars in the NE pillar and over blocks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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