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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6+/7-
Jestřáb
To the right of the western corner via a crack and wall into the hole. Traverse the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jestřáb
Along the western edge over the overhang to the ledge, along it to the left and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Jestřáb
Along the northern edge to the 1st ring. Along the wall over the overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jestřáb
The entry is in the chimney on the NE side. Through the passage to the opposite side and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hrdlička
From the balcony directly via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrdlička
From the plateau (SE) side via a crack and wall to the right to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrdlička
From the plateau (SE) side via a crack and wall to the right to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Děravý muž
In the right part of the wall over 5 rings to the summit (route below the abseil point). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Děravý muž
In the northern wall to the left of the Závislák route over the 1st ring, hour-glass, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Hrdlička
From the SW via the wall or a small corner crack to the left to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stehlík
Via the left SW crack to the saddle and via the Song of Iron route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Stehlík
Via the right SW crack and chimney to the saddle. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kondor
From the plateau massif, descend to the saddle. Up the wall to a ledge and along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kondor
In the valley (NW) wall, by crack to the end and left by wall over a small balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mezikámen
At the eastern edge, by chimney and crack to the pillar. Via the School Crack route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mezikámen
From SW by a diagonal crack, left by corner crack and chimney to the platform. Left by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mezikámen
Left of the Diagonal Crack route, by chimney to the crack and by it to the platform. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mezikámen
From the NE by crack to the pillar and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Věž amerických kosmonautů
From NE between the Tower of American Cosmonauts and Botanicka, by chimney to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž amerických kosmonautů
Through the plateau chimney into the hollow. Right by crack and chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Věž amerických kosmonautů
To the right of the N. A. S. A. route, by chimney and wall (two silver rings) under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Věž amerických kosmonautů
Through the center of the plateau wall via 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Botanická
From SW by chimney to the pillar. Right by wall (1st ring), by gully and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Botanická
From SW by chimney between Botanicka and Demon to the ledge to the second abseil ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Botanická
From the saddle between Botanicka and the Tower of American Cosmonauts, by wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Botanická
From the west in the corner by chimney to the pillar. Along the left edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Botanická
From the pillar of the Southeast Route, right by wall to the ledge and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Botanická
From the plateau side by corner to the small pillar. Building to the pine tree and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Botanická
SE wall left of "Hyacinth" to the small balcony to the 1st ring. Higher up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Démon
Right of the west corner by wall, small chimney and crack to the 1st ring. By crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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