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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
4
Chobotnice
The ascent is on the SW side. Via the crack onto the small pillar in the wide chimney,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Chobotnice
Via the Old Route into the chimney and through the crawl-through, diagonally down to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Chobotnice
Over small cracks and the crack, new variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8-/8
Chobotnice
In the uphill wall (4 rings) into the crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pijavice
Via the SW chimney for three meters, in the ledge left to the edge (1st ring) and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pijavice
From SE from the outer edge via a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pijavice
Via the SW chimney to the pillar, over the crest to the next pillar and via stemming to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pijavice
From SW (5m right of 'Komíny' (Chimneys) route) via the chimney, crack and chimney,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pijavice
Right of the 'Southwest Crack' route via the wall along the edge (5 rings) to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova
Along the north edge and (with aid) via the wall over the overhang right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Sova
Via the wall along the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Sova
Via the uphill wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Sova
From the start of the 'Yellow Route' via the wall left into the hole. Aid climbing over… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Lazebník
Via the NE chimney to the pillar, right via the chimney onto the flake, via the crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lazebník
Rock Climbing
5+
Rozmarín
In the right part of the valley (NW) wall via the crack onto the block. Via the crack … Rock Climbing
6
Dragoun
In the right part of the NE wall via the crack into the widening, via the wall right into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dragoun
From the valley side via the chimney onto the block. Via the crack over the hollow to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Rozmarín
In the left part of the SE wall via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dragoun
From NE via the stepped chimney and stemming to the fore-summit. Over the crest and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrdá Monika
From the plateau side via a chimney to the block and in the SW wall via the right crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Dragoun
Through the valley wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Datlík
From the plateau side traverse the wall to the right to the edge (ring) and along it via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hrdá Monika
In the middle of the SW wall via a chimney and widening crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vepřík
Via the left valley crack to the balcony. Along the wall (ring) to the right and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Syčák
From the NE via a chimney to the pillars. Traverse the wall to the right to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Datlík
Along the wall along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Syčák
From the fore-rock on the SW side via a small crack and to the left along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hrabě
In the SW wall along the notch to the ring, left along the edge via the wall (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hrabě
From the plateau side via aid climbing and an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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