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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6-
Kulisy
The ascent starts at the valley (west) corner of the tower. Up the wall and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Divadlo
SE opposition chimney and crack to the 3rd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kulisy
To the left of the Dramaturge's Secret route, via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Lefos
In the right part of the plateau wall, up the crack to the end, using aid, and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kulisy
Up the plateau chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lefos
To the left of the north edge, via substantial aid climbing and up the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Otylka
Left part of the plateau (SE) wall to the edge and along it (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Otylka
Up the plateau chimney between Otylka and the edge crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Otylka
Right valley crack and wall (ring) across the balcony to the pillar. Step over and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Ramona
Along the left valley edge, up the crack like the God's Fate route to its end, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Ramona
Near the left valley edge, up the crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall and edge over three… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ramona
In the right part of the valley wall, up the crack to the 1st ring. To the left, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Ramona
Between Venca's Crack and Twilight of the Gods over 7 rings a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
In the left part of the valley wall, up a shallow corner to the 1st ring, up the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Ramona
From the 2nd ring, up a shallow gully (ring) and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
Near the right valley edge, up the left crack into a hole and up the wall to the edge at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ramona
Near the right valley edge, up the right crack into a hole, from there directly (1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
From the 4th ring, traverse right into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ramona
From the slope, traverse the wall to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ramona
To the left of the Plateau Crack route, up the wall (2 rings) to the 4th ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ramona
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the pillar, up the crack and wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Ramona
Up the center of the north side wall via 6 rings to the summit (left side wall from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Ramona
To the right of the west edge, up the crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čokl
From the start of the Perný den route, traverse in the holes to the left to the hours. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čokl
From the north corner, up the wall to the left into a shallow corner. Up a small hawk to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čokl
Up the wall along the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čokl
SW wall directly to the hours. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Šeredka
From W via the crack to the ledge, traverse left to the edge (ring), new variation. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šeredka
Along the crack from the N side to the fore-summit, via the route 'Umaštěné dredy' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šeredka
Via the small crack right of the 'Umaštěné dredy' route to the fore-summit, via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay

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