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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
2+
Strážce jezera
From the gorge on the upper (SE) side of the tower, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
NW edge over five rings to the summit. (right of Mordor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
Left of Mordor, through the middle of the wide valley wall over small overhangs (5 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gorgony
From the lowest point of the valley side, up the wall and corner crack to the terrace.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Gorgony
Between Gorgons and Lake Guardian, up the corner crack below the overhang. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Gorgony
NE chimney over the terrace to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strážce jezera
Rock Climbing
4
Gorgony
Step across from the massif and up a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradbička
At the right valley edge, up the crack to a small balcony and via 'sokolíky' (small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
Right of the Old Route, up the crack to the pillar. By stepping across and up the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradbička
In the right part of the valley wall, up the corner to a overgrown ledge. Up the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, up a short crack into the inner space. From… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kněžna
Under the SW corner of the tower, by stemming against a block, up the crack and wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kněžna
From the SW, up the crack over the overhang into the chimney and up it to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
Up the upper wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
Via the valley route to the ring. Up the crack and 'sokolíky' (small ledges/flakes) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
Via the valley route and the left crack into the indentation. Up the corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Vévoda
From the upper (SE) side, via steps to the ring. Up the crack to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
The ascent starts under the right part of the valley wall. Up a system of cracks to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
From the chimney of the Old Route, traverse through to the valley side and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Vévoda
From the west edge, traverse left along the wall under the overhang to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vévoda
From the 1st ring, left beyond the edge into the recess to the crack of the Valley Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vévoda
Via the Past Times route to a small platform, up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Vévoda
From the 1st ring, left along the wall onto the edge and along it up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vévoda
From the upper side, via the "Old Route" almost to the window and right up a small … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Vévoda
Up the valley wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vévoda
From the SW, up a small chimney to a small pillar and up the crack into the indentation.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vévoda
SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vechtrovna
Up the valley wall over a ring to the ledge. Via the "Small Wall" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the right part of the NW wall, up the crack and right along the edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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