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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
5+
Sova pálená
From the upper gorge, up a small crack and wall below the overhang. Traverse right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the right part of the NW wall, up the crack and right along the edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the valley (NE) wall, up the indentation to the ring and up the overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vekslák
Up the upper chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vekslák
Up the wall along the west edge over 2 rings and from the 3rd ring up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sova pálená
From the NW, left along the wall to the crack, up it to the balcony and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Macecha
Valley wall (between St. c. and Blue Monday) via 2 rings and hours to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Macecha
From the gorge between Macocha and Vekslák (a carved groove at the base) along the S edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Macecha
To the left of Western. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vekslák
Valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Macecha
From the path up the west chimney to the pillar. Along the wall and crack to the sub… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Osamělá
NE edge (2x hours) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osamělá
From NW via the corner crack and left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Osamělá
Via the Kout path about three meters, traverse the wall to the right and along the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vřesová zahrádka
From the NE, across overgrown blocks diagonally right to the valley side and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kokša
Near the left plateau edge, up the wall, small hawk, and crack to the small pillars.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kokša
From the west corner up the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the ledge, then left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kokša
From the small pillar of the Transition Route, up the wall, via a small hawk (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ježíšek pankáček
In the NW wall, up the crack and a prominent rock feature to the ring. Higher and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ježíšek pankáček
From SE via the muddy crack and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ježíšek pankáček
Right SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježíšek pankáček
In the left part of the SW wall into a corner. In the ceiling, traverse out and use… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Křovák
In the plateau area, up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ježíšek pankáček
In the plateau area, by stepping over and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Godzila
SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Divadlo
In the right part of the NW wall, up the chimney and crack to the 3rd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Divadlo
In the west wall, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Křovák
Up the valley wall to the ring. Using aid from the harness and right along the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Divadlo
In the left part of the NW wall, up the crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kulisy
To the left of the Dramaturge's Secret route, via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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