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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6
Šeredka
Along the crack from the N side to the fore-summit, via the route 'Umaštěné dredy' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
Via the SW wall and left along the small ledges to the 1st ring. Aid climbing from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šeredka
Via the crack from S to the fore-summit, via the wall, new variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
Left of 'Ilja's Legacy' via the wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
Via the 'Ilja's Legacy' route above the 1st ring and directly via the wall to the 2nd and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
Ascent from the gendarme via the wall onto Družka (1st and 2nd ring), via the stemming… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Krasavice
In the middle of the SE wall via the crack to the 1st ring, directly via the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
The ascent starts below the south edge. Via the wall, small ledges and the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Krasavice
From the gendarme along the east edge to the hourglass, traverse left into the SE wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Krasavice
From the gendarme from the ledge at the north corner via the wall along the crack and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krasavice
Via the 'Beauty Without Veil' route to the 2nd ring. Directly via the wall and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
Via the route 'Beauty Without Veil' to the 1st ring and diagonally left via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krasavice
From the gendarme via the right part of the NE wall over overhangs (2 rings), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krasavice
From the terrace in the gendarme left of 'Beauty Without Veil' (belay ring) along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Družka
From the gendarme via the wall diagonally left to the balcony in the valley wall. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Družka
From SW from the gendarme via the wall and along the small crack to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Krasavice
From the gendarme traverse right along the ledge to the crack in the valley wall. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Družka
Left of the east edge via the crack to the end, via the wall right behind the edge, five… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Družka
Left on the uphill side via stemming to the ring and via the edge onto the ledge. Like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Družka
Via the wall to the first ring, via the slightly overhanging wall to the second and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Družka
In the middle of the small uphill face via the wall (2 rings), higher up via stemming … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Družka
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Chobotnice
In the left part of the NW wall via the crack and the wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobotnice
The ascent starts below the right part of the NE wall. Along the ledge traverse right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobotnice
From the left edge of the ledge (pine tree) directly via the wall under the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Chobotnice
Traverse right in the ledge to the north edge, via the wall along the edge to the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Chobotnice
From NW via the corner crack to the fore-summit and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Chobotnice
Via the crack of the 'Něco jako spára' (Something like a crack) route, two meters. Step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Chobotnice
From the block left of the 'Old Route' via the wall (1st ring) onto the small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Chobotnice
Via the Old Route to the small pillar. Aid climbing and traverse left via the wall onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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