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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
6
Syčák
In the valley wall via a crack to the pillar. Along the wall to the left to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Škrhola
In the NE wall via cracks and a crack (ring), higher up along the edge (2nd and 3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Škrhola
Via the NW crack to the pillar and via the Spiral route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Škrhola
From the valley side via a chimney to the pillar. Overhang and crack to the fore-summit,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Škrhola
Via the plateau crack to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Holubička
Via Malinová route to Supa to a overgrown balcony. Overstep, small crack (ring), left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Holubička
From the SE saddle via a squeeze and chimneys to the fore-summit. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Holubička
To the right of the eastern edge via a chimney and crack to the fore-summit. Via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Holubička
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack and chimney to the fore-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
9/9+
Holubička
Along the edge to the right in the passage between Holubička and Supa 3Q below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Holubička
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack over the overhang into the recess. Left crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Holubička
Via Malinová route to Supa (ring) to an overgrown balcony. Along the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Holubička
Via the NE crack to the 1st ring and along the wall (3 rings) to the balcony and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Sup
In the corner between Supa and Sokol via the wall and corner (1st ring) below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sup
From the summit of Sokol via descent, overhang, small crack and gully to the plateau.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sup
From the SW between Supa and Holubička via a squeeze (1st ring) and left along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Sup
From the N via a chimney between Sokol and Supa to the ledge to the 1st ring. Left beyond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sokol
In the left part of the valley wall via a crack and small chimney over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Sup
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sokol
To the left of the SE chimney via the wall through the hole to the 1st ring (aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sup
From the passage between Supa and Holubička via a squeeze to the inner plateau. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sokol
From the SW via a chimney and squeeze to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Opavská
From the NE via a narrow chimney to the saddle between Opavská and Jestřáb. From the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Opavská
In the northern corner via a crack to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the left beyond the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Opavská
Start from the gorge between Opavská and Supa. Middle of the wall over the overhang (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Opavská
Along the plateau wall along the crack to the ring. Along the wall to the right and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Opavská
From the chimney of the Poacher's Route to Jestřáb via a crack to the balcony in the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Opavská
In the SW wall via the middle crack to the ring. Via a fissure and right along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Opavská
From the SW via a chimney to the balcony, via a crack (ring) and chimney to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Opavská
From the NE via a chimney to the widening, via a gully and inner chimney to the left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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