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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
4
Maugli
From the NW gorge, by crack to the inner chimney, through it and by crack, chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kniha
Left of the Listopadka route, by conical chimney to the pillar. By the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Maugli
From SW, by chimney to the ledge, then left in it and along the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kniha
From the terrace, by the right twin crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kniha
In the right part of the SW wall, by crack and wall to the ring. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kniha
From the terrace left, by chimney and up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kniha
From the terrace, by the left twin crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Kniha
From the plateau fore-summit, by corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Belzebub
From the balcony of the Sun Edge route, right along the wall, pinnacle and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Belzebub
From NE, by small chimney between Beelzebub and the Book for about 2m and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Belzebub
From "Devil's Pulpit" by shallow crack (ring) to the balcony. Right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Belzebub
From the terrace, by crossing the chimney to the balcony between Beelzebub and Béda.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Belzebub
In the middle of the N wall, by crack and right to the 1st ring, in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ďáblova kazatelna
Left of the east corner, by crack to the ring. Traverse left along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ďáblova kazatelna
In the plateau gorge, by crack to the small balcony of the opposite tower. By overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ďáblova kazatelna
The start is below the northern corner. By crack (ring) over the overhang to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Ďáblova kazatelna
NE wall at the left edge to the ring and diagonally right to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Ďáblova kazatelna
In the NE wall, by cracks to the ring (ring of the Second variant). Straight up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ďáblova kazatelna
By crack of the Second route under the overhang and traverse right along the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the west, by small crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Along the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
Left of the start of the Way to the Sun, by chimney and crack into the window. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ďáblova kazatelna
The start is below the right valley corner of the tower. By opposition to the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the plateau gorge, by crack and chimney into the window. By gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Béda
From the terrace, cross the chimney to the balcony, then go left and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Béda
From S from the intermediate tower under the "Book" via the S chimney transitioning into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Béda
The start is below the northern corner of the rock formation. By chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kejklíř
Left of the east ridge by a squeeze, traverse the wall (ring) right to the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Béda
Through a crack in the west face into a recess, an oblique crack to the ring, over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kejklíř
From the E edge, traverse over 2 rings to the west edge. Right into the crack and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Kejklíř
From the south, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing

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