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Climbing at Za pískovnou

561 routes
126 areas
1–9+ grades

Za pískovnou in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 560 routes on 126 towers – the towers with the most routes include Tyroláci, Ramona, Strážce jezera, Bradavice, Krasavice and Vévoda. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9+.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Za pískovnou has 561 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 126 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Tyroláci 22 routes Ramona 14 routes Strážce jezera 14 routes Bradavice 14 routes Krasavice 13 routes Vévoda 13 routes Chobotnice 12 routes Smaik 12 routes Marína 10 routes Ďáblova kazatelna 10 routes Kovadlina 9 routes Démon 9 routes Ondatra 9 routes Dvojhlavá 8 routes Perlík 8 routes Havran 8 routes Opavská 8 routes Tyrolačka 8 routes Holubička 8 routes Maugli 7 routes Družka 7 routes Kniha 7 routes Botanická 7 routes Ikaros 6 routes Okenní 6 routes Sup 6 routes Belzebub 5 routes Puklý démon 5 routes Královna krásy 5 routes Nutrie 5 routes Bouřlivá 5 routes Mentolová 5 routes Ježíšek pankáček 5 routes Třetí 5 routes Bojsova 5 routes Tři opilci 5 routes Kněžna 5 routes Morana 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Pijavice 5 routes Divadlo 5 routes Šeredka 5 routes Skála Beaty 5 routes Šerchán 5 routes Televizní 5 routes Mrázek 5 routes Sluníčko 5 routes Mezník 4 routes Říční 4 routes Hrdlička 4 routes Mezikámen 4 routes Béda 4 routes Balú 4 routes Špinavá 4 routes Prostředník 4 routes Jestřáb 4 routes Macecha 4 routes Kostěj 4 routes Gorgony 4 routes Čokl 4 routes Kejklíř 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Sanktuarium 4 routes Věž amerických kosmonautů 4 routes Sova pálená 4 routes Sova 4 routes Škrhola 4 routes Apollo 3 routes Protestant 3 routes Strážce nahých 3 routes Gemini 3 routes Vekslák 3 routes Mokroušek 3 routes Syčák 3 routes Kulisy 3 routes Palička 3 routes Osamělá 3 routes Čertovy kameny 3 routes Kokša 3 routes Májovka 3 routes Permoník 3 routes Brhlík 3 routes Otylka 3 routes Sokol 3 routes Stehlík 2 routes Vechtrovna 2 routes Simpsonovi 2 routes Kondor 2 routes Brouček 2 routes Rozmarín 2 routes Chrastítko 2 routes Vojáček 2 routes Datlík 2 routes Džungle 2 routes Hradbička 2 routes Ústředna 2 routes Lefos 2 routes Sépie 2 routes Lokomotiva 2 routes Křovák 2 routes Lazebník 2 routes Boule 2 routes Palestra 2 routes Páže 2 routes Hrabě 2 routes Hrdá Monika 2 routes Děravý muž 2 routes Kontušovka 2 routes Zelený menhir 2 routes Žihadlo 2 routes Bar u Vočka 2 routes Baba Jaga 2 routes Ovtinka 1 route Bavorák 1 route Střelmistr 1 route Masiv vpravo od Veksláka 1 route Svobodník 1 route Buková stěna 1 route Inženýr – Kominík 1 route Katolík 1 route Godzila 1 route Masiv za Mrázkem 1 route Slojový pilíř 1 route Mons Olympus 1 route Vřesová zahrádka 1 route Vepřík 1 route
5+
Mentolová
From the North, along the wall and crack to the ledge. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kontušovka
Via a small column to the first ring, along the wall to the second and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mentolová
From the block of the Old Route, to the right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kontušovka
From the upper side around the pine tree and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Mentolová
In the left part of the south face, to the left to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Mentolová
From the West via the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mentolová
From the upper side (from the terrace) along the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mokroušek
SW face (ring) and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mokroušek
On the upper side in the chimney via bridging and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Tři opilci
By jumping from the massifs near Mentolová. Rock Climbing
2
Mokroušek
SE vegetated wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tři opilci
Through the inner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Tři opilci
Through the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tři opilci
SW edge directly to the ring and further into the Chraplák route, then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tři opilci
From SW via the chimney (around the tree) 3m, then right along the edge ('clocks') to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Třetí
From the block along the East edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ovtinka
Along the North face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Třetí
The start is on the SW side between Třetí and Havran. Through the chimney above its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Třetí
From the south edge, along the wall to the left to the ring. Via a small column to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Třetí
To the right of the South edge via a small column to the 1st ring and along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Havran
From the chimney between Havran and Třetí, overhanging into the wall. To the left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Havran
From the summit of Třetí, descend along the wall into the chimney, by stepping over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Třetí
Step over from Havran. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree to Marína' route to the balcony in the chimney. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Havran
From the summit of Třetí by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Havran
From NE via the chimney between Havran and Třetí to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havran
From the north corner along the wall along small cracks to the left onto a small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kovář
Through the upper crack and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree to Marína' route to the balcony. Through the chimney and a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kovář
Through the left part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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