Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Zbabělá varianta pilíře, Hlavní věž - jižní stěny 6+/7-

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas, Suché skály, Hlavní věž - jižní stěny

6+/7-

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-10

Grade 6+/7-

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
6+/7-
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.63665, 15.21245

Parking 335 m

50.63815, 15.21657

Via the Pilíř route, i.e., an overhanging crack and diagonally right (piton), higher up directly via the pillar below a salty overhang (piton). Around the overhang to the right into a corner. Via the corner and higher up diagonally left via a crack to a ledge with bushes (slings). Via the Pilíř route directly to the summit.
Rules

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Some routes on Sokolí věž are closed from 1 February to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 6+/7-)
6+/7-
Sokolí věž
Via the route 'Poslední přelíčení' (Last Rehearing) to the ledge, then a slightly… Rock Climbing
7-
Květová věž
From the valley through a small corner into a triangular overhang to the ring. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čihulova věž
Through the middle of the W wall (ring) into a horizontal crack (belay), directly up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Nosatá věž
Up the wall along the rounded edge to the ledge and to the top (pitons). Rock Climbing
7-/7
První věž
Through the middle of the green slab in the right part of the face over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vlajková věž
Up the overhanging edge to the 2nd ring and diagonally left up the wall to the 3rd ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Other climbing routes in Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the ring, via the crack over 2 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the overhanging crack (piton) to its end and diagonally right to the piton. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the left crack over the ring to the ledge and diagonally right to the piton. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via a wide stem between Otova and Pilíř routes (sling, small hourglass) to the top of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the E via a crack and chimney to the fore-summit and to the bridge with a ring, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the middle of the pillar and via a sloping crack, higher up along the ridge. Over… Rock Climbing
9
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the chimney via the small pillar's wall over a ring onto the small pillar, via route… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of route no. 16, diagonally right and up to the 1st ring. Over a friable… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the crack to the summit without using the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the left of route no. 19, via a small crack (1st ring - additionally placed) to the… Rock Climbing