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Nordwest-Pfeiler Hochstadel Nordwand

Austria | Tyrol | Gailtal Alps / Lienz Dolomites | Hochstadel

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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 11 hrs

Climbing time: 8 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,330m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 6

Climbing the "Nordwest-Pfeiler Hochstadel Nordwand" on Hochstadel is a classic alpine adventure in the Eastern Alps. Rated at a solid grade 4 (UIAA), this route offers a rewarding experience for climbers with some experience in alpine terrain. The North-West Pillar (Nordwest-Pfeiler) presents a well-defined line, typically involving exposed slabs, short vertical sections, and some scrambling. The rock quality is generally good, although loose rock can be encountered, especially in certain sections. Protection is a mix of natural features and the occasional piton, so placing your own gear (cams and nuts) is essential.

The ascent offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, adding to the overall allure. The crux often involves navigating a smooth slab or a short, steeper section requiring careful footwork and confident movement. Be prepared for varied conditions, as weather in the mountains can change rapidly. A successful ascent requires solid climbing skills, good route-finding abilities, experience in placing protection, and a healthy dose of alpine awareness. Bringing a rope team that works well together and clear communication are crucial for safety. After the climb, a well-deserved descent awaits, typically involving a combination of rappels and walking sections. The "Nordwest-Pfeiler Hochstadel Nordwand" is a truly memorable climb that provides a fantastic introduction to alpine climbing in the Hochstadel massif.

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