Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Jantarova spára, Jižní stěna 4+

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 21. Spálenisko, Jižní stěna

4+

Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Textile belay, Vertical wall

Last updated 2024-05-12

Grade 4+

Climbing season

No climbing restrictions found

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
4+
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay Vertical wall
Location

50.80561, 14.24517

Parking 1.3 km

50.79422, 14.24956

About 18m to the right of the prominent corner (Black Hole route) onto the fore-rock. Through a short chimney and along a wide crack to a small balcony with a large pinnacle, then up the wall to the left to the rappel point.

Discover Jantarova spára, a climbing route rated 4+. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Jantarova spára.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Measure of a General Nature 2021, map 2021, authority OP Administration of NP Czech Switzerland

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 4+)
4+
Lodivod
Completely to the left on the valley side (large birch) via an S-shaped crack in the… Rock Climbing
4+
Parník
In the valley (W) wall, to the left of the corner, via a crack to the platform. Through… Rock Climbing
4+
Goliášek
In the upper part, from the balcony along the right edge over several steep sections to… Rock Climbing
4+
Goliášek
From the ledge at the valley edge (clock) along the gully (loops) higher up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bójka
Up the middle of the South face, higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bójka
From the plateau side, traverse right to the balcony of the Old Route. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
Other climbing routes in Jižní stěna
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the crack, up the wall via K to the pillar for abseiling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Jižní stěna
In the right part of the lower wall, to the left of the corner, up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jižní stěna
To the left of the "Old Dog" route, up the slab via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the 'Chrptová doska' route, up the west edge via K to the upper terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Jižní stěna
From the ledge in the left part of the wall, up via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Jižní stěna
In the west wall, along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Jižní stěna
To the left on the upper tier at the West Edge, via 5 BH to the abseil point. Belay (2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the upper tier, to the right of the 'Edge' route, ascend the wall (4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jižní stěna
From the upper terrace along the rounded edge via BH to K. Up the wall (hour-glass) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Jižní stěna
To the left of the "Greenhouse" route, up the wall via K to the balcony (station). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2