Oklika (Náhorní cesta), Josefova (Stalinova) hlava 3

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 16. U Josefovy hlavy, Josefova (Stalinova) hlava

Rock Climbing, Textile belay

Overview

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Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 3

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

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Difficulty

Rock Climbing Textile belay

Location

50.81897, 14.23069

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Parking 566 m

50.81420, 14.22789

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From the Nagorný massif descend to the ledge, step over and directly up the wall to the large ledge of the Nagorný route to the summit.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

Climb in daylight only.
Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
Jumps between towers are not allowed.
First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

Chalk is banned.
No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
Do not alter the rock surface.
Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.