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Varianta Zakázaná spára, Malý ďábel 8-/8

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor, Malý ďábel

8-/8

Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 8-/8

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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8-/8
Length
18 m
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow Vertical wall
Location

50.83891, 14.20911

Parking 700 m

50.84315, 14.21647

Like 'Forbidden Crack' to the pulpit and further up the wall via BH to the rappel BH.

Discover Varianta Zakázaná spára, a climbing route rated 8-/8. The total length of this route is 18 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Varianta Zakázaná spára.

Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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