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Via del Diedro - Panettone de Pal Piccolo

Austria | Carinthia | Carnic main ridge | Panettone de Pal Piccolo

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Overview

Grade: 6

Total time: 4 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 35 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 155m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

The "Via del Diedro" on Panettone de Pal Piccolo stands as a true classic in the Julian Alps, offering an unforgettable climbing experience for those seeking sustained technical challenges. Graded at UIAA 6, this route is renowned for its elegant line, primarily following a prominent dihedral that gives the climb its name ('Diedro' meaning dihedral or corner).

Located in a spectacular alpine setting, often overlooking the dramatic border region between Italy and Austria, the Panettone de Pal Piccolo itself is a distinctive, almost loaf-shaped peak. The approach typically involves a scenic hike, leading to the base of its inviting rock face.

The climbing on Via del Diedro is engaging from the start, demanding a good command of traditional climbing techniques. Pitch after pitch, climbers ascend the steep, solid limestone, navigating sections that require precise footwork, stemming, jamming, and occasional laybacking within the corner system. While not excessively long, the route maintains a consistent level of difficulty, with a few sections pushing the UIAA 6 grade. Exposure is a constant companion, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys.

Reaching the summit of Panettone de Pal Piccolo via this route is immensely rewarding, providing a panoramic vista that truly captures the wild beauty of the Julian Alps. The descent typically involves rappels down the route or an alternative, often a scramble or a mix of both, bringing climbers back to the base.

Via del Diedro is more than just a climb; it's a journey through a piece of alpine history, a test of skill, and a deep immersion in one of Europe's most captivating mountain ranges. It's a must-do for any experienced climber visiting the region.
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