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Východní stěna, Roháček ?

Czech Republic, West Bohemia, Plzeň South, Rohatá, Roháček

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Rock Climbing

Last updated 2024-05-12

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Difficulty
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Rock Climbing
Location

49.59334, 13.51980

The pre-dawn chill still clung to the air as we began the approach to Roháček, a prominent, yet often overlooked, peak in the High Tatras. Soon, the 'Východní stěna' – the Eastern Face – emerged, catching the first golden light, a truly imposing granite challenge. We aimed for one of its classic lines, a route rated a solid UIAA V, known for its sustained technical climbing and exposure. The first few pitches were a joy, a mix of solid cracks and friction slabs, building confidence on the crisp rock. Then came the crux: a delicate traverse across a smooth, steep slab, followed by a powerful layback move up a shallow corner. Every muscle strained, the exposure beneath our feet breathtaking, but the rock held true, offering just enough purchase for our fingertips and climbing shoes. Higher up, the angle eased slightly, but the views opened up dramatically, a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding Tatras stretching to the horizon. Reaching the small, windswept summit of Roháček was a moment of pure elation, a silent appreciation for the effort and the incredible scenery. We savored the brief triumph before beginning our descent – a series of careful abseils down a less steep gully on the south face, followed by a straightforward but long walk-off path back to the valley. As the last rays of sun painted the peaks in hues of orange and purple, we hiked back to the car, tired but deeply satisfied. The Východní stěna had offered a memorable and rewarding climb, a true Tatran adventure.
Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

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